PART THREE
                                             A BUSHMAN'S  HORSE LOGIC.............
                     OLD BUSH REMEDIES FROM THE WEST OF QUEENSLAND.. 
  
 
               TEACH A HORSE TO LIE DOWN 

     In a suitable place  on a lawn or in a sandy area attempt to lay the
horse down.   If the horse doesn't hurt itself  in this early stage it will
cooperate more.  To do so  use a strap to  hold his nearside fetlock bent
back up towards  his upper leg,  buckled in place.  Reach over his neck and
pull on the (right) offside rein , so his head and neck is  held in this away
from you  position.  Now lean on his wither with your pointy elbows and
help lower the horse down onto the strapped fetlock .  At this time use your
legs against his nearside shoulder to support and brace his coming down. 
You must do this again and again to reinforce   the lesson ,  until he will
come down when you apply the firm right rein action .  Each lesson should
not exceed fifteen minutes of ups and downs. Otherwise he may sour on the
idea. 
When this works, from horse back  pull the nearside fetlock up with a rope
and pull on the right side (offside) rein firmly. Again brace your leg on the
nearside as he comes down to assist him to lay down . Use a command to
help him remember what you want, "down" or whatever suits you.     
                    REMEMBER:
          Be firm with your horse and reward its good habits and chastise
any bad habit .


                    INDEX
                              
Age p 59                                    
Arthritis p 83
Bad habits p 27
Birdsville disease p 83
Bluestone p 48
Bot description / treatment p 103
Breaking in p1          
Broken bones p 86
Brumby running p 17
Bullockys p 21
Overreaching  p 78
Paddler p 30
Paraylsis p 84
Pitch plasters p 86
Physic balls p 105, 106
Pneumonia p 96, 97
Proud flesh p 48
Purge p 102
Quittor p 80 
Rheumatism p73Bush remedies p 4
Buying a horse p 33
Canker p 81
Castration  p 91,92
Coaltar p 47
Colic p 51, 52, 53  & 56
Collar roping  p 4
Crupper p 13
Crush  p 44
Dentistry p 62
Drench  p 52, 53, 56 & 76
Ear  p 99,100
Eczema  p 100
Eye treatment p 48
Feeding  p 63, 65, 69 & 70 
Fistula p 83
Fly p 47 
Foals p 36, 37, 56,  70,  89 , & 102 
Galls p 48
Gentling p 1, 21
Gravel rash p 99
Halter p 2
Harness p 19
Hidden testicles p 94
Hippy p 17, 19
Hooves p 46 , 15
Lameness p 73, 75
Leading p 2, 6, 8,  & 15
Liniment p 81
Mistreatment p 25 
Mouthing  p 10, 11
Mustering  p 27 
Myths p 17
Oats p 69
Osteoporosis p 84


Riding  p 11, 27 
Rump rope p 6
Saddle up p 6
Safety p 41
Saltlick p 65
Sand crack p 78
Scours p 56, 57
Seedy toe p 80
Serviceing p 36
Sharp teeth p 63
Sitast p 48, 51, 89
Skin problems p 99
Spavin p 76
Strangles p 57
Stitching p 46, 94
Stringhalt p 76
Swamp cancer p 88, 89
Sulphur p 97
Swimming p 27
Teamsters p 24
Teeth  p 59, 61, 62, 63 & 70
Tetanus p 72
Throwing a horse p 91
Ticks p 72
Thrush p 81
Tracking horses p 27, 33, 34 
Trim hooves p 46
Turning p 13
Windgalls p 76
Wounds p 46, 94
Worming p 100, 102


 
If you make a copy from this site 
send me a dollar its alright
Don Johnson
3 sth stn rd booval 4304
Ipswich Queensland Australia
                                                  












                   CHAPTER ONE       
                      Remedies from the back country, once used  in a town with no
Veterinary service for
a hundred miles or so . With descriptions of injuries and ailments, and old time
cures.       
The remedies were mainly for horses, they always manage to injure themselves  at
the most inconvenient time, or so it seems!

         BUILD A CRUSH PERHAPS?..      
     Perhaps you will build a crush to handle your animals. 
The ideal size about four panels, each nine feet long.   Put the posts three feet in
the
ground, minimum, and six feet out.  They can be held together across the tops by
iron
crossbars for strength.  The internal width of the crush is 25 inches to restrain
movement. 

                                                           
                                                 
The two posts one panel from the end, may have a sliding gate or two slip rails, or
heavy water pipe .  And be sure to make the crush out of ironbark, gidgee, mulga,
coolibah, or yellow jacket, if perhaps using the inland timber. Or heavy hardwood
6x2
inches sawn timber.  Of the coastal timber ironbark seems the best, the heavier
the
better, use four rails per panel bolted  securely to each post.  Some use the Cobb &
Co  doubled wire twitch  to hold it in place.
     Or perhaps you can use 2inch water pipe. To complete the crush, you must
have a
solid   and reliable, opening gate at the  exit of your crush. Solid padding on the
rails
and posts, eg, industrial padding of perhaps heavy duty rubber would protect your
animal from bruising.
                  COLLAR ROPE..
       Horses always seem to accidently  tangle with barbed wire and get cut about. 
When you try to doctor the injured animal you have lots of trouble with your horse
it moves away from you and the hurt.
One answer is to  collar rope the horse, use a strong rope 
make a loop, (make a bowline knot, non slip to join the loop preferably,)   around
the 
horses neck, and tie a non slip knot. Feed the trailing rope end  through the loop.  
                                                     
    Now pull the rope through until you have a rope  loop on the ground near his
back
leg.  Lead him forward  so that he steps, bringing a back leg right into the loop. 
Then 
pull on the rope till it picks up his back leg by the fetlock above his  hoof. A horse
that
is docile, will let you pick up his back leg into the collar rope loop, if you take care
to
avoid a kick. Pull further on the rope till you can tie the rope off at  the neck loop,
with his leg lifted well up near his body. 
Now you can attend to the wound. Some horses will throw themselves down, and
usually they learn not to, it hurts them. When they have thrown themselves, if
necessary
you can tie them down.  If one person holds the horses head and neck down, while
it
lies on its side, the other can apply separate ropes to each leg. You then tie the
horses legs out stretched, tied so it can`t get its legs back under it. 
Tie each fetlock individually, so the ropes hold, and stretch the horse out so it
can't
strike you while  you operate. I never use this cruel method on a horse!  Collar
roping a
horse is handy when your horse fidgets, moves from one foot to the other, lifting a
hoof, when you try to trim his hooves with a hammer and wood chisel. 
Now  without interference you can attempt to doctor your horse.  When checking
the
wound have clean hands, use a disinfectant on the wound and clean it of all
foreign matter.
         
         WOUNDS AND CUTS..
Sprinkle in some antibiotic powder and check that no arteries are cut, if blood
squirts
from an artery apply pressure to the wound or tie the artery off.  Tie off with a
stitch if
possible, or  apply artery forceps to the artery.  To stop bleeding you can apply a
tourniquet above a bleeding leg wound, artery or vein . Boil up a rag, soak it in
watered
down peroxide, or slaked lime.  Gently apply it to the wound and bandage it into
place .
If necessary  stitch it into place to stop the bleeding.  Ice packs when held firmly
in
place, will work . But some means of pressure on the bleeder is essential.   Now
would
be a good time to give him a tetanus needle, in the neck, behind the shoulder, or
in the 
rump!   Stitch large wounds if they aren't on joints, or where there is  very little 
movement, where the skin doesn't drag much when he moves.
Jagged, deep, torn or severely bruised wounds, usually do not stitch but bind
instead. 
Use stretch bandages, change them daily.
  After  removing any hanging flaps, decide whether to stitch  the wound,  { they
usually pull out after a few days anyway } or bind it together with a stretch
bandage . 
 If you stitch, make sure you take care to disinfect the needle, your hands, and the
wound area, and get a good grip of what you stitch. Get a firm grip into the hide
and
flesh with  your stitches, and leave the bottom end of the wound slightly open to
drain the wound.
              FLY  PROBLEMS..
  Your next problem will be flies and infection, smear olive oil or vaseline or insect
repellent all around the wound to keep the flies from biting it.  Use stockholm tar 
over
a wound about the hooves area. Stockholm tar is good for leg wounds, a side effect
is
that the hair falls out but it will always grow back.    Produce sellers usually have
vet
help products, ask about: antibiotic powders, tetanus needles, stockholm tar, and
bluestone powder.  You apply bluestone to dead flesh  commonly called proud
flesh,
which rises above the level of the skin.  Apply the bluestone to the proud flesh
only,
not the healthy skin. Use it twice a week, or the bluestone  will slow the healing
process. Powdered slaked lime can also  help the healing of such wounds, and is
commonly used by amateurs.                         

    It is possible to cut the proud flesh away as it is dead tissue, there is very little
feeling in it. Try to  bring the knife up from the bottom of the wound, so blood
does
not obscure your  view of the wound, as you cut the granulations away. 
You may want to use a rasp on the proud flesh to remove it.  Clear only the
granulation above the skin  surface to be effective.
 
                COAL TAR.  
Hot coal tar was often used to blister, to remove calloused skin around say an 
enlarged
fetlock. Or to bring a bumble foot back to near normal.  Best used as warm as
possible,
and repeated several times, with breaks in between treatments of 10 days, to
remove successive layers of calloused skin. 
Also used for sitfasts,  dead flesh on horses backs, painted on hot it gets rid of the
dead meat.
              CHAPTER TWO
         A VARIATION..
 A VERY GOOD REMEDY USED BY A DROVER AROUND DIRRANBANDI
Qld.1955  [ Don Johnson ] FOR OLD CUTS AND SORES. ON HORSES AND
THEIR
HOOVES AND FETLOCKS THAT ARE LIKELY TO BECOME INFECTED .. 

                                                     
             TREATMENT.. 
Mix one part stockholm tar, left in the sun to melt a little  2 parts phenol, or
dettol, plus
2 parts neatsfoot oil, 2 parts venus turps, [ not paint turps ] put on every day
until healed. 

PROUD FLESH ..
A light dusting of bluestone powder will eat it away apply every few days.

         THIS SAME BUSHMANS TREATMENT FOR EYES.. 

        FOR REMOVING OLD SCUM OR SCAR TISSUE, FROM HORSES EYES,
ALSO USED FOR PINKEYE IN SHEEP AND  CATTLE BLIGHT  IN 
  CATTLE.. 

I have used this mixture through out my lifetime it can easily compete with the
best
medication on the market, particularly in the bush, where vets are not available.  
It will definitely cure the above complaints, even if the eye is enlarged, and
extended to a point.  You must persevere for good results. 
                                                      
                   
   TREATMENT.. 

     Boil one level dessert spoon of sulphate of zinc, in one pint of rain water until
the
zinc is  dissolved thoroughly, bottle when cooled, a beer bottle will do nicely. 
Never
squirt this solution straight into the eye, the horse will pull its head away and
become frightened.  More so each time you do it.  
 Use an eye dropper or syringe, placed at the back and side of the eye. Now trickle
in
the mixture carefully, to insure it will not surprise or cause a  fright to the
animal.        
   Also you could fill a drinking straw, or a tiny plastic tube or something of this
nature, handled this way, so it would trickle into the side of the eye.  It will cure
the above complaints if adhered to. 
 
       GAlls and SITFAST ... 
 
     Are caused through pressure on the skin, or rubbing friction, it can be a
saddle, or
harness causing it. The skin is devitalized, or rubbed raw, and round wounds
develop
behind his elbow, where you do up the girth.  For fresh  girth galls, if not too
severe, use metho on it daily   to harden and dry it up. 
      Under horse collars you get shoulder galls, and beneath the saddle on the
withers and back sitfasts appear, they can be either raw or scabbed over. 

TREATMENT .. 
     If the horse is not being ridden you can blister over the sore once, and watch
for
improvement using antibiotic powder or cream to heal it.  Girth galls are  best
prevented by keeping the girth tight enough, to move the horses hide with the
saddle,
when you pull the saddle sideways on the horse.  After riding a short distance get
off
and check the girth and saddle. ( Because horses tense up when you first tighten
up the
girth, when you first saddle the horse,) if you check the tightness now, it may
need
adjustment. After your ride remember to check his back and girth up area for
injury. 
And rub him down with a towel under the saddle area, or wash him with the hose
at
low pressure, this type of water massage really quietens some horses. For horses
who
consistently girth gall, try putting your girth through a motorcycle tube, this often
helps to  stop chafing, preventing further galls.
    *** TIP***   Don't forget when you saddle up a horse he/she will push out its
chest 
and the saddle is not as tight as you think . So after riding or 5 minutes get off
again
and tighten your girth/sirscingle, it may be loose and can cause a girth gall......

                    SITFAST.. 
 
     Sitfast is a injury to the hide killing the area of the injury, through regular
pressure
daily from saddle or harness. The round patch of skin dies, it separates from the
healthy
skin around the edge, and stays a long time attached to the hide. Caused mainly
by pressure cutting off blood flow in the area. 
                   TREATMENT 
It can`t be cured while the horse works.  Blister the area and later when the edges
lift,
cut under with a knife between the two areas and remove the sitfast.   Then
blister
again to promote healing, next day apply antibiotic powder or cream to cure. 
              
              FESSLOW
   HORSES USED ALWAYS IN HARNESS DEVELOPED A BRUISED AREA IN
THE WITHER  SHOULDER BLADE REGION ,  OF THE NECK .  IT BECAME
DEAD AND ATE A POCKET INTO THE WITHER NECK AREA . 
  The teamsters of the day usually got rid of this horse, as it seemed uncurable
and never healed.
An old Chinaman in Mungindi "Willy",  showed me how to fix this problem ,
He bred maggots in some raw meat left out or that purpose, then he put the
maggots
into the open pocket on the horses' wither.  After several days he removed the
maggots
from the 'horse pocket' by filling it with milk. The maggots gorged on milk and
came
out of the pocket to be comfortable in their bloated state. The wound then healed
as the dead and proud flesh was gone .


                   CHAPTER THREE
                                                      COLIC 
You generally give your horse colic, his stomach is fairly small.  His stomach is
easily
upset by spoiled food, and if you feed him mouldy, sour, or tainted food, along
comes colic. 
  Do not let him eat or drink when exhausted after hard  riding, if he is still hot.
    Allow your horse to cool off and rest awhile, then let him drink a gallon or so of
water, no more, until later. 
    A horse can not vomit to relieve an overfull stomach, his small bowel may close
off,
fermented gases can form producing   colic.     A good feed of wheat will bring it
on,
do not overfeed your horse.  Colic is a bad pain in the gut for the horse, they will
usually show it by pawing, rolling , or swinging his head around to his stomach,
and stretching and straining.

             FLATULENT COLIC..
     If the horse is bloated and full of gas he  may have had a feed   of wheat or
tainted grain, give him no food and plenty of water. 
To relieve the stomach pressure, you can try putting a tube into  his stomach to
drench
him, or to wash it out. If he is swelled up in the stomach, he is full of gas and may
have fever in his feet later on, Laminitis. 
To stop the fermentation which is happening  in his stomach, and to get his bowel
to work again, clean him out, with a stomach tube, use :
                                  
IN A DRENCH..

4 grams carbolic acid .
Half an ounce of lysol, or 14 grams.
Plus 2 ounces bicarbonate soda, or 56 grams, to stop fermentation in his stomach. 
Mix into half a gallon of water .

 ALSO, if available give as well these extra additives :
14 grams nux vomica or half an ounce.
Half an ounce carb of ammonia, in the drench, or in a ball, on the back of the
tongue. 
Give an oil purge six hours later of 1 pint linseed, and 1 pint of castor oil, mixed
up for a 1 litre drench, to move his bowel.
        COLIC HOME REMEDIES..
Laudanum 28 to 56 grams or 1 to 2 ounces for pain,
turpentine up to 56 grams or 2 ounces plus,
linseed and castor oils  1 litre mixture ,in a drench.
Powdered ginger 28 grams or 1 ounce,
Tea to 28 grams or 1 ounce,
a tablespoon of chlorodyne 56 grams or 2 oz,
sweet spirit of nitre up to 56 grams or 2 oz,
in the oil, or in a pint of water mixed.
                                                      
         HORSE DRENCH TUBING..
     The tube is smeared with glycerine and pushed gently 
up his nose.  The distance to his stomach is three times the 
length  of his head, from his nose to between his ears  and 
can be  marked on the hose.  If you push into his windpipe he will exhale through
the
tube.  When you get the tube into the gullet or stomach, try blowing into the pipe,
if he
tries to regurgitate you are in the stomach.     Blowing into the windpipe won't
upset
him, but you don't put fluid into his lung. Once confirmed in the stomach or gullet,
push the tube in a few  inches more to relieve the gas pressure.

         STOMACH WASH OUT..
       Mix up 56 grams or 2oz bicarbonate of soda , in a gallon of water.  Then put
a 
funnel into your 3/4 inch plastic pipe.  Now tip a cup of water or so down the tube,
to
see if he coughs, to make sure you  are  not in  the lung. It is very dangerous to
pour  drench into his lungs. 
      Then put the mixture in his stomach to wash it out.  Then allow the tube and his
head to come down, so as
to drain the mixture from his stomach. 
( See more tubing info later p56.)
                                                           
  COLIC DRENCH  HALF PINT OR 284 ml..
     Drench him half a pint at a time, three times a day from this mixture: 
 1 pint castor oil , or 568 ml.
1 gallon paraffin oil  well 
stirred to drench the horse.      You can use the tube 
method .      Or if preferred ,  you can try using a 
large bottle,  plastic or glass.     Hold the horses head up a bit, but not too high ,
as 
too much back tilting gags the horse, preventing swallowing of the medicine .        
     
   Put the bottle neck into the corner of his mouth.  Please avoid being accidently 
struck by his front legs.  If he gags,  he will rear back to avoid choking, be warned
of the danger.


 COLIC IMPACTION..
     This type can be intermittent colic caused by an upset liver, or over feeding, or sand
in his stomach.  He may go down and stay down longer than normal, and will be
up and down give him a drench with :

Naphthalin  28 grams = 1 oz,
oil cajeput 28 grams = 1 oz,
sulfuric ether 112 grams or 4 oz,
turpentine 112 grams or 4 oz ,
paraffin oil medicinal 1 lt , or   1 quart,
568 ml or  one pint of castor oil, shake well and drench him.
Try a ball with 14 grams or half an ounce each, of ammon carb and pulv nux
vomica  on the back of his tongue .       

              

SPASMODIC COLIC..
     If he is in pain, but his stomach is not swollen, put your arm up his rectum and feel
for an impacted mass. If none is felt, it`s probably spasmodic colic, ( water gripes
or
dry gripes, are other names for spasmodic colic) If he is in pain give him a drench
with.
28 grams or  1 ounce of laudanum, OR,
56 grams or  2 ounces of chlorodyne, OR, 
56 grams or  2 ounces chloral hydrate.
Use ONE of these, in a boiled starch or flour liquid, use about 284 ml or half a
pint as
a drench, repeat every 2 hours if necessary.     
                                                 
         MORE TUBING INFO..

When inserting the tube raise the horses head, straighten the
neck a bit, push in the tube with the natural tube curve up, as you get to the
throat turn
the tube curve over, so the tube will tilt up to seek his stomach entrance .  Be sure
you are in the stomach..
 
DRENCH DANGERS.. 
 
     Be careful what you give, and where you place the tube, you can cause choking
or
pneumonia. If the horse shows signs of trouble after drenching you may have put
fluid in the lung.  


            IF SO, FOR THIS    TRY..
 
    Bleed from the jugular vein 6 quarts of blood,  and blister his ribs with a
mustard
plaster, place on the tongue one teaspoon of fluid extract nux vomica, mixed with
ten
drops of flemings tincture of aconite in honey to sweeten, every 8 hours.   Give
enemas, the salty type, 1 cup of salt to 4 gallons warm water and add some
glucose,
apply every 3 hours until things improve.   
    



                   CHAPTER FOUR                            
                               SCOURS IN FOALS .. 
 
    When a foal is with its mother and gets diarrhoea,    mainly in the hot weather, it
can be deadly to him, or a  severe set back physically. 
     Try to keep the mare milked out.  Some mares have very big udders and lots of
milk, the foal gorges  on a lot of milk, then sometimes we have foals with the scours.                                              
Getting too much milk seems to bring on the  scours. If possible keep the mare in
a separate yard or paddock in a
shaded  place. If scours develop in the foal, milk her out for two days and  give the foal
this mixture. 


FLUID EXTRACT OF CATECHU, 3.5 grams or 1 eighth of an ounce,
SPIRIT OF  CAMPHOR, 7 grams or 1 quarter ounce, 
FORMALIN 20 DROPS ,
GLUCOSE SYRUP 113 ml or 4 ounces, 
      Dose 28.4 mg or 1 ounce 3 times a day. 
 
               STRANGLES .. 

     Strangles sometimes appears when young horses are brought into   the stable for the
first time. They appear to get strangles  all too often. 
    Grass eating foals can get it too. If they 
recover they   develop immunity to the disease for life. 
The general symptom is lack of appetite. eg, the mares udder 
stays  full, or the meal is partly eaten.     
 A swelling develops under the lower jaw of the horse, and a runny  nose, watery
at
first, and thicker later. The jowl lump will swell some more, very likely, making it
hard
to breath.  If untreated pneumonia   and death may occur.        
Don`t use , the feed or water buckets for the other horses,  to keep the infection
from spreading to the healthy horses. 
Keep him warm and covered.  Later on abscesses develop in the jowl, plus glands
may swell.  Abscesses may  appear on other  parts of the body. 
Try a mustard plaster on the  abscess, or a blister from the vet supplier,  this
should bring it to a head.       When the disease invades the blood stream abscesses
develop  all over the  body, and bastard strangles has command.                                       

            MEDICATION...
         
   Antibiotic needles 20mils per dose.  
Available from the  vet, these needles injected deep into the rump, it seems the
easiest
place to needle. Put the needle in to the horse, and draw back a little, on the
plunger. If
you get blood in the needle, change your site and try again.
 
I DO SUGGEST  YOU GET VET HELP AND MEDICATION ..
 
Use a  mixture of combination penicillin / streptomycin, 
and it can usually pull the  horse through this very dangerous condition.. 


                                                      
              CHAPTER  FIVE
   OLD POETRY THAT SERVES A PURPOSE..

             HOW OLD IS YOUR HORSE.. 
            To tell the age of any horse, 
          Inspect the lower jaw of course; 
          The six front teeth the tale will tell, 
          And every doubt and fear dispel...                    
           Two middle teeth you will behold, 
          Before the colt is two weeks old; 
          Before eight weeks there two more will come, 
          Eight months corner teeth cut the gum.. 
          The outside  grooves will disappear, 
          From the middle two in just one year. 
          In two years gone from the second pair; 
          In three years corner teeth are bare... 
          At two the middle teeth they drop, 
          At three also the second lot; 
          At four years the corner teeth will go, 
          At five his bridle teeth he shoes. 
          The deep black spots will pass from view, 
          At six years from the middle teeth, two ; 
          The second pair at the seventh year, 
          At eight no spots on bottom teeth no fear... 
          From the middle teeth in the upper jaw, 
          At nine the black spots are gone for shure ; 
          The second pair at   ten are spotless bright , 
          Eleven finds the corner teeth  no spot just white. 
          As time goes on the stockman  knows, 
          The oval teeth three sided grow. 
          They grow longer and project before, 
          Until twenty years when we know not  more...                                          
                                                               .................anonymous.
         
     Horses such as Australian thoroughbreds took birthdays and   their age from  
... 
August  1st  in the nineteen fifties, and still do so today. It can be very difficult to
judge a horses age by his teeth, as many  factors can change teeth, diet and what
they 
eat, the type of grain or grass that they chew on, and such differences can wear
their
teeth more or less .   The horses teeth are divided into incisors 
front teeth or nippers, Canine teeth [tushes] , and back  teeth,   premolar and
molars.  
A mouth full of teeth numbers 40-42 in a
male, and  a mare may  have only 36. She doesn`t usually have
the canine teeth.   But sometimes they do grow them.  
 Then replacement of the milk teeth, by permanent teeth is as below listed. 
 
                 TEETH UP, IN  BOTTOM JAW.. 
 
     First  2 middle teeth in the bottom jaw 2.5 to 3 years.  The next pair come up
between 3.5 to 4 years.     Six teeth are up in the bottom jaw at 4.5 to 5 years, and
the 
canine teeth get up also between 4 and 5. 
At five all the bottom adult   teeth are up and level ...
   Foals are born with as many as 12 back teeth, milk teeth... 
            BAD TEETH.. 
Speaking about teeth, horses who  lose condition  even  though the feed is good,
may
have bad teeth.    If he takes a mouthful of feed, and instead of chewing and 
swallowing it normally, he rolls it round in his  mouth till it collects  in a sodden
mass,
which he then drops from his  mouth without swallowing any;     
If he slobbers when feeding; if he shows pain when  feeding, like holding his head
on
one side, it is a safe guess to think of checking him for teeth damage, and to say
he 
has teeth trouble. A horse that leaves grain and eats grass,  does this because
eating
hard grain hurts him. Look inside his mouth, the teeth giving the trouble should 
be   visible. The main cause of trouble in young horses is defective  shedding of the
baby teeth. 
 As the permanent teeth rise to  replace them, they become jammed together
causing
complications, and noticeable and severe pain when chewing  plus occasional
lacerated
cheeks and gums. Try to remove the troublesome baby tooth with forceps. With an
older horse you get trouble with different levels in the teeth,  due to wear on them
from
chewing, producing sharp edges on some of the teeth and a cutting edge 
on the molars. These can get so long that they cut the tongue or cheeks and 
prevent
feeding. Use a gag [mouth opener] to keep the horses mouth  open, while you rasp
or
file the sharp edges off any long molars. 
 
              BE A HORSE DENTIST .. 
    When the permanent teeth replace the baby teeth in the first five years, the
tooth
coming through the gum eats away the root of the baby tooth which should fall
out in due course. 
But this does not occur on some occasions, probably because of the hand feeding
he gets,  away from the natural paddock conditions.                           . .                
So we have the task of removing these obstinate teeth, usually this is not too hard
as
the roots are nearly gone.  For instance in a two and a half  year old horses
mouth, 
if you look you can see the center two teeth bulging a bit, and above and up
behind
them the pernament teeth coming through, forcing  through to their allotted
positions. 
Feel the baby teeth to check for looseness.  A pair of dentist type forceps are the
thing
to use, to pull a loose tooth. It is possible to assist nature to insure the old front
teeth
leave, as their replacement time comes due, providing they are loose. 
    A gag is handy, to look at the horses teeth . 
While checking the two and a half year old look at his grinders, [ back teeth pre
molars,
baby teeth.] You should see a molar or two coming up under the baby teeth, and
alongside of them. 
These baby teeth can be pulled when they loosen enough to go                              
   .
Sometimes young horses damage their gums, by ripping out the top center teeth. 
The
gum gets torn, possibly the bone broken, and the teeth injured.  If allowed to go
untreated, fibres of food and grass become embedded in the gum wound, the result
an
infection in the jaw . If the part injured is loose and moveable with the fingers,
remove
the piece or it may become a lump, and produce an infected discharge.   Or
possibly, it may become cancerous.
    If the damage is close to the roots of the milk teeth, the adult teeth will come 
through in their due time.    If you remove the piece of gum, bone etc, feed him
only
on bran and young green food nothing else. 
Wash out the mouth daily, to clean the wound, with salty water. 
 When you break your young horse in, you are going to damage his mouth on the
inside, between his teeth and  cheeks. Probably the inside of his cheeks will get
cut and
bruised.  You see  a bridle bit presses the cheeks onto the first bottom back teeth,
and
makes the horse sour, and leaves cuts which can become abscesses on the cheeks,
or the lower jaw. 
    To avoid this while the horse is being taught to trust man, his first back tooth
bottom jaw, either side can have the sharp outside edge filed back. To prevent the
bit
cutting his cheeks severely when he is being mouthed,  use the above discussed
method
.  While you are in his mouth feel the outside edges of his back teeth for sharp
edges,
top outside edges, and bottom  inside edges, can and may, get very sharp.  As he
chews
food his cheeks are pressed against these cutting edges, and it makes feeding
difficult and painful. 
   Get yourself a horse tooth rasp and borrow a gag and trim the sharp edges back
to teeth level, as felt by finger or seen with a torch. 


                                                      
                   CHAPTER SIX         
      WHEN FEEDING YOUR ANIMALS, APPROXIMATE MEASURES.. 
 
1x20 litre Drum of Pollard holds about 8 kg or 18 lbs old weights pounds.. 
1x20 litre drum of Bran equals   5.4 kg or 12 lbs, 
1x20 litre drum of Wheat meal equals 11.3 kg or 25 lbs, 
1x20 litre drum of Lucerne meal 5.45 kg or 12 lb .
 20 litres is  about equivalent to a 5 gallon drum. 
1 Litre tin of Pollard   = 454 grams or 1 lb  Old weights.   
1 =       =    Bran      = 8 ounces or 227 grams   
1 =       =   Wheat meal = 1 lb 8oz or 679 grams 
              [ 16 ounces = 1 pound ] 
1 =       =  Lucerne meal = 340 grams or 12 oz 
1 =       =    Maize meal = 679 grams or  1 lb 8oz 
1 =       =  Coconut meal = 454 grams or  1 lb 
1 =       =  Linseed meal = 454 grams or  1 lb 
1 =       =     Meat meal = 679 grams or  1 lb 8oz 
1 litre is less than a quart,  1 quart is equivalent to 1136ml. 
1 Cup holds approx. 10 ounces liquid or 284 ml.   
    1 Litre of Salt fine = 908 grams or 2 lbs .
    1 litre of Maize cracked  = 707 grams or  1 lb 9 oz. 
    1 litre of          Oats  = 566 grams or  1 lb 4 oz .
    1 litre of   Oaten chaff  = 198 grams or  7 oz .
    1 litre of Lucerne chaff  = 141 grams or  5oz .
                                                 
          FEEDING OUR HORSE... 
    FEEDING A HORSE U.S.A.STYLE RACING OR HARNESS .. 

They feed no cut up chaff, lucerne or otherwise, the bulk of 
roughage is fed from a good range of improved pasture.
     PADDOCK FED. 
A horse in full hard work, will require 7 to 9 quarts of oats a day.  Some are fed 3
times a day, others only twice. 
The top measure, would be 3 quarts of oats per meal, at 3 meals a day. 1 cup of
sunflower seed  with each meal, 1 cup of linseed meal plus 1 to 2 quarts of bran, 9
ONLY, for the day.  Too much cracked corn can be harmful, give one cup cracked
corn
per day.
2 pints  = 1 quart.   4 quarts = 1 gallon or   4.5litres .
**** SALT LICK BLOCKS THAT HAVE MOLASSES  ETC  ARE USED OUT IN
WEST  QUEENSLAND WHEN THE DROUGHT IS BAD, THE  BLOCK
ENABLES
THE STARVING STOCK TO EAT OLD DRY USELESS GRASS AND BUSHES,
EVEN WIRE GRASS  TO SURVIVE.......TRY IT ...**** 
SALT LICK BLOCKS. (***Don't allow water to mix with the SALT BLOCK  it
may
become  poisonous if  the lick ferments in water.***)
     Blocks are essential so they can get salt for their requirement, or otherwise
about 1
to two teaspoons a day, of fine salt may be added to the tucker. 
                                                      
         FEEDING   AUSTRALIAN RACEHORSES..  1960's
    Roughly the same applies  in Australia. We fed the roughage in good quality
oaten
or wheaten chaff, in lieu of pasture roughage, up to 2 gallons per feed 3 times a
day,
and 1 single handful of green lucerne . BEWARE too much lucerne chaff can
shorten
the wind and may cause kidney trouble.
 1 double handful of chopped up carrots is a good idea. Should you feed barley boil
it.
Never feed him barley, raw or untreated. A damped  down feed, not wet, can be
made
using a spoon full of molasses mixed into the water.  The dampening prevents
dust in
the horses lungs. Mix vitamins from your fodder store, I have used white E with
great
success. 

 AS A DROVER WORKING IN DROUGHT, WE FED OUR HORSES..
     As the horse was ridden every day at work. 
 To keep their strength up when the grass was scarce.
Feed him one 2 gallon  bucket of chaff, 3 times a day, 2 to 3 quarts of oats with
each
meal. This will definitely keep him in working condition.  Any suitable additives
in
small quantities will be a supplement to his diet. When horses are starving, they
will be
trying to eat through the wires of fences and over them.  They will be really
starving
when they are peeling the bark off the trees. They become compacted in the
stomach
for this reason. The Australian whitewood tree is a drug. Should your horse get
onto it,
this is a slow poisoning and very deadly to all animals, especially if it is wet.   
On a small acreage, it may seem  to you to have horse tucker, but it may only be
green
with weeds, such as stinken rodger, and maybe a hundred other inedible plants
not
palatable to a horse.  The inexperienced eye would think their horse is on good
feed.
     But perhaps it`s useless, frosted old last years grass, which after winter has no
protein, so at least a supplement of OATS, to me is a necessity.  Remember oats
for
horses, too much can make him fractious, very  lively, and too little is almost
useless .

    BROWNIE.                                          
Old Brownie he used to be, a station owners horse, 
But here he was down in the town, on a quarter acre course.
He used to live away out west, as he told me with remorse,
But here he was on a city block, poor starving bloody horse.
A forty acre paddock, was the home he knew, past tense, 
The dogs would come to yard him up, and he`d kick them o`er the fence.
In his quarter acre paddock, of grass he was bereft, 
He`d get some lucerne hay, if five dollars they had left.
When he was young ten years ago, at least then in his prime,
He never went for tucker short, scrub mulga it was fine.
Brownie stood just fifteen hands, surefooted as a flea,
When you climbed aboard he sure could root, if he dropped his head you`d see .
You only had to rouse on him, and pull his head back up,
If you stopped him pigrooting, slim, this gelding wasn`t rough.
The hungry squatter sold his hide, to a horse meat buyer crude,
This squatter couldn`t bloody ride, he`d thrown the little dude.
His owner had walked home five miles, with a mean bad attitude,
Old brownie got the stockmen`s smiles, when he`d dropped the boss so shrewd. 
The dogger took him in a float, it was a semi trailer,
Just him and a few burnt out plugs, dog meat to the can wholesaler.
The mighty Aussie dollar, his life did surely save,
The dogger thought him good enough, for the townie riders brave. 
So that left him here my friend, no food for him to find,
The bark off trees might fill his gut, but would his stomach mind?
Now there was no more root in him, starvation saw to that,
Green feed might just a pigroot bring, poor tucker left him flat.
So when you see your city horse feed, through his quarter acre fence,
Yes mate he`s hungry for some grass, just use your common sense!                      
                                             by D H Johnson.
                                                      

  MINIMUM FEED OF OATS PER DAY ..
 1 QUART ...1LITRE ...THREE TIMES A DAY FOR HEALTH
 PROVIDING there is enough grass roughage in the paddock they
need plenty of roughage,  also some protein which is lacking in old winter grass,
plus
salt, give all vegetable peels and bread to him, to keep him alive.

         DROUGHT TUCKER ..
    As a small boy during a severe drought, in the town of Dirranbandi in western
Queensland.  I met 2 Indians with pack horses, I enquired from these dark men.
     Why their horses were so fat and ours were a bag of 
bones. They said," We feed them, mate". I asked " What on?" The answer was, "
Boiled
kangaroo and damper, plus the leaves of the mulga tree." ( Mulga trees, the grey
leaves
are  14 percent protein and pretty good tucker for horses, cattle, and sheep in a
drought.)  
 
    DID YOU KNOW. 
    Indigestible, rank sour or tainted food can cause stomach problems, eg gas and
colic
in horses or hoven in cattle. 
 An ideal feed for the working horse is a concentrated combination of oats, bran,
corn
and chaff, plus an armful of lucerne at night . The greenstuff supplies a vitamin
balance, just like you getting your vegies. 
 A rock salt lick is useful if he eats a little daily, helping the balance of his diet. 
  Give him bran about twice a week for laxative purposes, and try 4 ounces epsom
salts
in one feed, for the same reason. Laxative food is necessary for sick horses, to
remove
waste and gas from his system.  Water your horse from a bucket or keep the
water
trough  clean,  changing the water regularly ... 
                                  
        FEEDING A PODDY FOAL...   
     Watch his bowels keep him warm and clean, 
if he hasn`t had milk from his mother, start him on the 
mixture listed below.
Clean water 1 litre
Salt a quarter teaspoon,
Lactose 1 tablespoon,
Glucose, 2 tablespoons,
Cod liver oil, 1 teaspoon, 
Paraffin oil  1 tablespoon, 
 
Mix and shake well, warm the mixture to body temperature 
and give through a bottle with a baby teat, about 227 ml or   8 oz at a feed [ half
pint ]
every four hours or so. Remember to wash the bottle  in hot water between feeds,
thoroughly ..
        After 48 hours you can put him on a milk diet, for every five pints of milk
add
85 ml or  3oz lactose . 
At three days give cows milk straight.
  But it is VERY important to DISINFECT the bucket, bottle, etc between feeds,
or
SCOURS and problems will be there..

After a few weeks he`ll eat grass but keep up the milk and 
try a little pollard, chaff, and oatmeal, and soft greens. 
Scald the feed container clean every day... 
 
    You can teach the poddy foal to drink from a bucket by 
letting him suck your fingers, and putting your hand into the milk to teach
feeding. 
 
      CHEWING TREES, FENCES, AND SADDLERY, MANURE?
 
     The cause a lack of mineral salts. Get a salt lick for your friend, and check his
mouth for teeth trouble . 
   Eating manure is common in horses, and most animals do some times. Some
horses
eat their own manure leaving no trace in their stable, they come to no harm from
this
vice .. 
 
      TREATMENT.. 
    Limestone powder 1 tablespoon each feed or a molasses lick should help his
mineral
vitamin deficiency.. 
              CHAPTER SEVEN
         BITING THE CRIB.. 
    Crib biting is when the horse holds the manger with his teeth and stiffening
the
muscles  of his neck, repeating this  action every so often, for long and short
periods. It
can develop into wind sucking,  where the crib is no longer necessary and he just
nods
his head and sucks air in until his flanks are distended. Young horses pick up the
habit 
quickly from a crib biter. If you suspect the horse you are buying may be one,
check
for his worn down front teeth.   It is possible to stop him early in the crib biter
stage 
by feeding him in a tub on the ground, and removing what he chews on after his
feed is
gone. 
This vice comes from boredom usually, or it can be due to stomach trouble eg.
ulcers,
bots, or worms. The habit once formed, stays. The side effect is it induces gastric
troubles and makes him restless. 
 
           TETANUS IN HORSES.. 
     Sometimes called lockjaw, this awful disease is prone to horse, sheep, and
man.
Tetanus produces a powerful poison much stronger than snake venom, which
affects the
nervous system. Nail punctures can cause it in horse or man. 
The poison grips th
en causes spasms or stiffening of the muscles, and joints. In the early stages
stiffness
appears     
 The mouth will not open properly, and his tail pokes out like a pump handle.  
                                                      

                   TREATMENT DO GET THE VET.. 
 
                    TICKS ON ANIMALS... 
 
     Ticks are blood suckers; they look tiny and flat and come in many types .
They attach to their host and feed on him in three stages, 
Larvae, nymphs and adults. 
One of the main ones is  the cattle tick, which first produces tick worry and
anaemia
from sucking the animals blood and secondly conveys, from one beast to the next,
the
organisms of the very dangerous tick fever.  Different parts of Australia, and in
Queensland and the Northern Territory, plus parts of New South Wales are
infested with
ticks.  Ticks could be got rid of by dipping in a arsenic dilution over a   9 day
period,
every three days. 
  The blue tick is arsenic resistant.   A  dangerous side effect of arsenic is possible
poisoning of animals due to licking each other after dipping, or eating grass that
arsenic
has dripped on. 
                                                   
                DOG TICK 
    The dog tick will cause tick paralysis and finally death.
 Appearing mainly on the coast, they need humidity to survive.
 If your dog  seems to have shaky back legs, and has trouble 
 standing, rush him to the VET.. 
 
 
             LAMENESS .. 
      How do you find what is wrong: Check the position of the lameness by
examination of the horse.  Try to find  the most likely cause. Determine the
possibility
of recovery and the best treatment.   Lameness is usually caused by pain in some
area
of a leg be it in the muscle, tendon, ligament, bone, or nerve. 
Sometimes a defect in the body makes for lameness, possibly a torn chest muscle,
or
abdominal muscle, even a broken rib. A break in the first rib, produces lameness
called
radial paralysis, where it is demonstrated by the front elbow near the broken rib 
dropping lower in motion as the horse moves. 
Have the horse led past you and check him over for unusual leg movement, try
him
walking, trotting, turning, twisting, backing, and moving the neck and head, to
locate
the problem. A lame horse, while moving uses his head and neck as a levering
pole, to
take the weight off the sore limb. 
If he is lame at the front, he will lift his head when the lame leg comes to ground, 
returning to natural neck position as the good leg hits the ground.
 When he is lame in the rear leg, he will lower his neck, when the front leg
opposite
the lame hind leg comes down. 
     Now, is the lameness seen when moving or standing on it. A lame hoof touches
the
ground, noticeably softer in sound, on a hard surface.  This identifies the leg to
look at .
Feel the suspect leg with your fingers and compare each leg
as you do so, for size and thickness, possible swellings. 
Pick up his foot by the fetlock and check the bottom of the foot for possible injury,
be
it nail puncture or bruise, crack or splinter.Twist and squeeze each joint and part
you
suspect. Firmly grip each section of the leg that you examine, to get a sign of pain
in
the area, tap the hoof area lightly with a hammer. If no evidence comes of
damage,
check the shoulder by squeezing muscle and pulling the leg about. 
    While walking a horse, if he is slow to pick up his foot and move it forward, it 
can
be a shoulder injury.  Another shoulder injury is  Sweeney paralysis of the
supra-scapular nerve; in this case the shoulder muscles waste away. 
Rheumatism is a cause of lameness in all animals. When it is in the joints of our
horse,
it can be trouble.
   Knee lameness is evident, after severe exercise and disappears with rest, seen
as
swelling at the knee of fluid. 
Shin soreness is easily found, by rubbing the fingers down the shin or by pressing
the
shin.
 Broken down or swollen tendons or ligaments, are seen by the swelling of them,
or the
pain on squeezing them.  Individual fibres of tendons can break just like in a rope,
when this happens the area gets thicker. 
Fetlock lameness, is noticed as a swollen joint, and pain with any movement. Foot
lameness shows pain when tapped or squeezed. 
Most lameness occurs in the front of the horse, legs or chest, and shoulder. 

          TREATMENT.. 
     Lameness in shoulder, loin, muscle, and abdomen, come good with rest usually.
Muscular types of lameness are helped with a blister application. 
Put him out to grass for six months to recover. 
    In the hindquarters some lameness injuries include: 
Hips knocked down or a fractured pelvis, are very common in horses, and cattle.
The
point of the hip is damaged when rushing past a gate, or falling heavily, or
struggling
while being thrown or cast, ( pulled down )  possibly, after being  kicked by other
horses, or hit by car etc, These types can produce breaks of the body of the hip, 
bone
or shaft.

              
              BREAK SYMPTOMS PELVIS AND HIP ..
    Pelvic breaks are as follows: Look for a lot of lameness, no symmetry or balance
between the two sides of the rump. 
Sometimes the bones can be heard grating together, or felt 
if you put your arm up the horses rectum. 
Hip joint lameness is noticed by a hop in the stride, as that leg is  moved. In stifle
lameness, the horse drags the toe in the forward step of a back leg.
                                                                          
              STRINGHALT.. 
    Stringhalt when seen, is uncontrolled spasmodic movement of a rear leg, this
leg is
held up close to the body of the horse. 
Seemingly immobile,   suddenly it drops with a thud to the ground. 
 It is possible to have it in both back legs, where both back legs are jerked up,
leaving
the horse on his two front legs balanced, a very severe case.
  It mainly occurs in paddocks, and is caused by eating herbage such as dandelion.
 
       TREATMENT.. 
     First remove your horses, and then eat the paddock out using cattle, or sheep. 
Put
your horse in a stable and keep him quiet and undisturbed. Stringhalt can be
linked to
worms and bots, so worming him is recommended. 
Feed him on chaff, bran, lucerne hay, and green stuff.  Add one pint of oats to
each
meal.

  DRENCH..
 Drench with 14 grams or half an ounce of bromide of                                     
 potassium, in a quarter pint of water, twice daily. 
1 tablespoon of fowlers solution in each feed .. 
              

                        CHAPTER EIGHT
          
                               SPAVIN.. 
Bone spavin is hock trouble, which is producing chronic lameness.
And probably shows visible enlargement of the bony inside part of the hock,
blistering
is a possible treatment. 
 
  BOGSPAVIN.. 
 Bogspavin is a bigger hock joint, because of  increased production of joint oil,
caused
by hard work or damage, or working animals when they are too young.
    It looks bad but does no harm, it may eventually clear up, mild lameness does
occur. 
 
          CURB.. 
 This is a bump on the back of the hock, where the tendons join the hock,
lameness
stays for awhile then it passes, harmless. 
 

         WINDGALLS.. 
These are a swelling of the leg above the  fetlock  joint, hose this swelling, and
massage it with cold water 15 minutes daily, bandage the area. 

      

        OVER-REACHING CUTTING AND BRUSHING..  
     These things can happen when you are breaking in a horse, or after putting
shoes on
your horse. Sometimes the hoof of one foot hits another leg or part. Brushing is
when
the back or front  hoof, over reaches and strikes the fetlock of another leg. 
 This can cause injury, protect his legs with fetlock boots . Shoe him very close to
the
inside, and grind that part of the shoe back a bit, that strikes the fetlock. Tie
something
around the pastern,  [ fetlock ] to make him step wider to avoid hitting himself . 
 
 CUTTING.. 
    Very common in trotters, damage to the inside of the hock or knee.
Caused by hitting with one of the other feet.  Try lacing a boot under the knee or
hock,
or over the striking foot. 
Fit the horse shoe of the striker hoof close, and bevel it on the inside, or weight
the
shoe, to alter the action of the horse. 

OVER-REACHING.. 
     If the back hoof toe over reaches hitting the heel of the front hoof, it may
dislodge
the front shoe, or badly injure the front heel. Alter the front shoe, to make it
lighter
concave and shorter. 
Fix the back shoe also, make it heavier, and fit the toe of the shoe a quarter inch
back
under the foot. Try heel boots over the injury area. 
   
   SAND CRACK .. 
     Is a crack in the hoof wall, vertical to look at in the foot but not reaching the
sole
of the hoof, or the fetlock. 
If the crack goes deep, it can be inflamed and may produce a discharge. 
Sometimes it
appears with blood coming from the crack, because of the flexing of the foot and
the
crack opening and shutting. Very painful for the horse. 
 
TREATMENT.. 
     Try to keep the crack from opening any further to encourage healing, insert
two
horse shoe nails across the crack to bind it together, clinching them to hold the
crack
shut if possible. 
Or burn one or two grooves above, and below the crack, and bevel out the edges of
the
crack . Do not burn through the horn of the foot to avoid causing further injury. 
  Try taking the pressure off the crack by paring the sole and wall below it.  Keep
the
horse shod and apply a blister to the hoof injury site.  With a crack coming up
from the
hoof sole , use similar treatment for this quarter crack type or perhaps groove
above it
and take the corners off the split sole area, Use nails if possible to clamp the hoof
to
help it to heal faster. 

                                                                      SEEDY TOE.. 
     Is the separation of the hoof horn layers, outer and inner, and the
decomposition of
the affected area into a grey or black substance, which falls out leaving a cavity in
the
hoof. This hollow can be found by tapping the hoof wall . 
This can be a side effect of laminitis [ fever of the feet ].
If possible remove the damaged area and keep the horse shod, then blister the
coronet it
may take a few months to cure. 
Lameness occurs in bad cases of this problem. 
 
      CORN.. 
     This is a bruise on the heel of the sole of the foot, between the frog and the
wall of
the hoof. Probably caused by bruising, jars, or a bad fitting shoe, perhaps too short
at
the heel. 
  If lameness occurs cut back the area of the corn exposing the bruised or decayed
area,
and remove all discolored tissue and use antibiotics to heal the wound. 
 
      QUITTOR .. 
     Is discharge of pus usually above the hoof, its only escape route except the
coronet
band area . Quittors can be caused by nail punctures, pricks or bruised soles, plus
injuries to the coronet, [ at the very top of the hoof ] which may go untreated until
you
see it in this stage. Pus forms at the injury site, and looks for an exit at the top of
the
hoof where the foot softens. 
Before quittor forms, there is a lot of pain plus swelling at the top of the hoof,
which is
hot. At this stage if possible    find the injury site and let the pus out, rather than
bring on an abscess at the coronet . If the damage is on the coronet try blistering .
 Blister it to retard the pus development . 
   When quittor is happening  it is necessary that you help the pus to exit, the pus
can
be in a pocket below the exit site. 
     Again you can, in some cases thin the sole of the foot to allow the pus to drain
back . 
      It may also be necessary to remove the horn from the seat of the injury to the
coronet, and open the pus formation. Rasp back the affected area very thin from
hoof
top to bottom, then inject Cocaine into the nerves of the pastern . Throw the horse
and
apply a tourniquet to the leg. Remove the horn covering the infection. Do not
damage
the coronet, treat it as a wound . 
 
           THRUSH.. 
     This is a frog disease The frog discharges a black smelly substance and also
wastes
away . Caused by what the horse stands in irritating his foot, be it manure or
urine etc.
Clean thoroughly, with a stiff brush, the injury site, and remove any horn covering
the
diseased parts. Then lower the heels of this hoof to bring the frog in contact with
the
ground. 
 
  TREATMENT.. 
       Try a mix of tannic acid and vinegar, or alum
water daily painted on the frog area. Continue to remove dead horn from the frog
area,and put a shoe on him .
                                                                 
       CANKER.. 
   This is a bad one, catch early if possible, it is eczema of the horn which makes a
soft
cheesy substance and  causes lameness. It may start in the frog and it will spread
to the
sole and the wall of the foot, try to remove the diseased areas and burn with a hot
iron
the exposed diseased flesh,lightly, treat it as a wound. 
                  NAVICULAR DISEASE.. 
     Inside the foot are two bones, the foot bone or pedal, and behind it the
navicular
bone or shuttle bone. The navicular is behind the joint of the foot bone, and makes
part
of the joint to the foot. It can become inflamed and lameness occurs , this one is
probably hard to pick .  It gets sore after work and comes good with a spell .
There was no cure.    Try a blister on area of the hoof top. 
         TRY THE VET.
           GENERAL LINIMENT ..  
     Good for sprains, tip into a gallon container the following :
56 ml or 2 ounces ammonia ,
56 ml or  2 ounces oleic acid ,
112 ml or 4 ounces ammonium chloride, 
112 ml or 4 ounces methyl salicylate stirred into 340 ml or  12 ounces of
turpentine .
Add  water and shake well, fill the container for one gallon of liniment,  which will
be
ready to use in a few days.  
Use on sprains, bruises, shoulder galls, sore necks and mastitis.              . . .         
               
         
                        CHAPTER NINE
    HANDY METHOD FOR DRENCHING A HORSE FOR MOST WORMS OR 
PARASITES. ( BUT NOT FOR BOTS.)
     Remove water from the horse for at least  12 hours, or after  you have had a
hard
days riding, so a thirsty horse will drink readily of the mixture .                           
                                       
Dissolve one knob of recketts blue in two gallons of water, and leave it until the
horse
drinks his water medicine.  
            FISTULA.. 
     Possibly is caused by bruising to the withers of the horse or an  infection with
germs from a cows contagious abortion. A blood test may prove the abortion
infection
type exists on the withers of the horse, or possibly elsewhere on the animal. 
Cow abortion contagious and fistula can go together.
Two kinds of fistula occur on the withers; running fistula, and blind fistula.  The
blind
ones burst and become running fistulas. 
They can break out both sides of the withers and release a sticky pus discharge.

TREATMENT.. 
If not busted, blind fistula can be a swelling, hard or soft with fluid apparent
sometimes
. If near bursting, open it with a wide cut across the length of the swelling, to
remove
as much as possible of the decaying matter, and fill it with antibiotic powder .     .
.                               
Or use a blister of cantharides, or iodine, do not use red mercury blister as they
may
kill the skin. 
                        
                                                 
               ARTHRITIS.. 
       Inflammation of the joints the same as we get can happen in any animal. In
pigs
and lambs it is common, through microbes that cause erysipelas in pigs. Lambs
get it
after being marked, picked up where sheep camp by the fresh 
wounds. It may be preventable if the campsites are fenced off, when marking your
lambs. 

             BIRDSVILLE DISEASE .. 
     The horse looks drugged, and sleeps on his feet, and has a yellow discharge
from
his nose and eyes. His breathing is heavy and slow.   If you drive him his head
will be
up but his back leg, will drag its fetlock wearing the toe down on the hoof. 
 If trotted he will sway and fall, some recover in a week, some will die, but the
drag
hoof action stays with the back legs.  Caused by a plant called
Indigofera.Enneaphylla. 
Get rid of the poisonous plant .  
         
    OSTEOPOROSIS..  
     Symptoms puzzling. The horse is lame one day in this leg, and lame in another
within days. Sometimes rheumatism is blamed. Rest improves it temporarily and
it
happens again. To be sure he has the disease check his head. His face may be
swollen,the hollows along side his nose are gone.  Feel the teeth sockets on the
bottom
jaw the bone seems bulgy and bumpy.  A dangerous disease for the horse, death
possible. 

                 OLD  TREATMENT.. 
     Give daily 568 ml or 1 pint cod liver oil, and carbonate of lime 1 cup of, and
feed
him well .
              AZOTURIA..
     Horses get this disease after being put to work after a rest. It happens to race
horses
in a mild form, sometimes.  They may get worked hard after a restful weekend, or
a
few days off. Often it occurs on a very hot day, though it can even occur on a cold
frosty morning.
  Sultry weather seems to be its favourite time .

ITS SYMPTOMS ARE..
After being worked for a mile or so, he begins to stumble and cramps get him in
the
loins or croup. He also sweats a lot and soon has trouble moving.  When seen his
urine
is blood or coffee coloured.  This is a definite symptom, and if its very severe he
may
go down, and have paralysis.          

    It is caused by two things, feed and work combined. Rich feed and no work for
a few days, and then fast exercise can create the trouble in an hour or so in most
horses. So to be safe, no work, no grain and a lighter feed should do it for him.

         TREAT HIM WITH..
     Give him a purge, with 1 grain of arecolin injected under the skin, which will
purge
him inside one hour.  Drench him with 1 pint of castor oil, or an azoturea drench. 
If he
goes down and can`t rise, he may die without treatment.
Those that stay upright, who sweat or stiffen up, can recover, usually sweating
horses
can be covered with a rug to keep the sweating going.           
    




              CHAPTER TEN
               PARALYSIS.. 
     This can be a fracture of the spine in horses, he looks as though he is paddling
with
his front legs, the back ones don`t move.   Put him  down usually, but check with
a
Vet.. 
 
             JINK BACK IN HORSES .. 
     Probably caused by backing into a wall or fence, when pulling back, slamming
the
hindquarters. It is seen as a loss of coordination in the back legs, or the front legs. 
The
legs seem a bit splayed and unsteady, common in the young horse. 
No pain, but poor balance when he walks, a similar symptom to osteoporosis,
caused by
displaced spinal vertebrae and nerve 
pinching.  [  See your vet ! ] 
 
    TREATMENT OF BROKEN BONES, PELVIS..
  Use a splint or plaster to above and below the nearest joints in a leg, to
immobilise it .
    When treating a break restrict the movement of the horse as much as possible, 
To reduce the fracture as much as possible and set the limb, gently move the limb
into
its normal position. Then apply the splints made of wood or bark or any human
splint
material. Try to align the bone properly for a better result in the end. 
 Apply pressure to the splints with bandages, to keep alignment of the bones right.
The
skin of a horse is easily damaged, so check the pressure areas daily.  Shift the
pressure
points to avoid skin damage, and then re splint again.  A horse sling is often used
to
stop a horse lying down, as he can damage the break further when he struggles to
get
up again.
                                                                                              
         PELVIS BREAKS..
      Pelvis breaks are fairly common in horses, recognised by the unevenness of
the
sides of the pelvis, as they are seen from the rear.
One side is up or down, or possibly narrower than its opposite side.   Lameness is
obvious .
If a hip joint is not involved in the injury, recovery is usually fairly quick, with the
horse back to normal again.  Apply a pitch plaster over the pelvis, it can relieve
the
pain and supports the area.
    
          PITCH PLASTERS..
     Include the following mixture, one part of pitch, to two parts of stockholm tar,
the
mixture is heated to thin it till its hot, then apply it, paint it across the back and
apply
strips of rag or gauze, then paint again over the top, repeat for several layers in a
lattice
like manner, to give it strength . After you are finished paint liberally over the
finished
product, and pour dry sand over it or dirt, to make the surface firm. Your plaster
should
sit like a small saddle over the spine above the pelvis. Leave it on for six               
                                  
weeks, healing should be evident by then. To remove it, apply vaseline or grease
daily
to between the skin and the plaster edge .

         SWAMP CANCER..  
     This a growth of granulations caused by some constant irritation, starting from
a
sore or crack, it develops into a large mass of flesh which bleeds often and is
bitten by
flies constantly. It is probably caused by the flies larvae, or nematode worms,
carried by the flies, getting into the wound and irritating it. 
  TREATMENT.. 
     Try benzol on the wound, to kill the worm larvae, and paint the wound with
solid
absorbine 3 times a week. If the wound is well raised above the surface of the
skin, 
cut the flesh away level with the skin and treat as above mentioned  Also you can
try
this method, into the cancer smear arsenic paste,    [ once supplied by chemists
1950s  ]
and cover with brown paper wadding and a sticking  plaster cover. Tie him up all
day,
to stop him rubbing it off.   REPEAT  every three days until the growth is burnt
out. 
TO HEAL.. Paint on a pitch plaster or coal tar, keep the flies away with vaseline
or
insect repellent around the wound. 
                   




              CHAPTER ELEVEN
         CURES FOR SWAMP CANCER , SITFAST, ETC..
 OBSERVATIONS OF A BUSHMAN, LISTING INJURY CAUSES AND A         
CURE FOR SWAMP CANCERS, SETFAST, AND OLD INJURIES FROM THE
SADDLE, CAUSED BY LUMPY SADDLES IN THE COUNTERLINING, OR
SPREADING OF THE TREE BENEATH THE POMMEL OF THE SADDLE,
WHICH
IS CALLED THE GULLET.
     These injuries can be caused by people that ride rigid in the saddle, they who
don`t
move with the stride of the horse.
The difference is, half the people have a death grip style, hold on the saddle and
bridle. 
The better way is balanced riding, with a light hand on the reins, and to ride in
motion
with the horse. Called free and easy style .. 
 This style is less likely to cause scabby backed horses.   Repetition of the same
injuries, will eventually cause proud flesh or sitfast,  gangrene, etc, and thickened
scar
tissue from old injuries. 
                   TREATMENT.. 
     First use warm COAL TAR, not STOCKHOLM TAR. Swab on once a week, it
will
eat out the dead flesh.  Also use coal tar on a horse that has a thickened fetlock
from a
stake or injury, that has thickened up with scar tissue.  I`m not referring to newly
staked
animals, only the scar tissue from old injuries, keep painting it on and the
enlarged area
will be reduced to normal, you will notice the blister on the skin every time until
the
scar tissue is removed. The fetlock becomes normal again.  A very determined
effort
should be made as some cases take longer than others, to bring about a
satisfactory
result. 

              EYE CANCER.. 
     It occurs in horses and hereford cattle. Grey horses suffer from melanotic
cancers
on the rump. Eye cancer starts on the haw of the eye like a pimple, and grows to
the
size of a pea. A discharge develops which attracts flies. After awhile it attacks the
eyelid or eye ball, eventually attacking the bone around the eye. Remove it early
and 
quickly to avoid cancer of the eye.
                                                           . . .       
                 JAUNDICE.. 
     This disease is noticed by the colour of the eye white, now yellow and by
yellow
bile stained tissues at the mouth. 
Caused by disease of the liver and blockage of the bile duct, with fever also
sometimes
.
              TO TREAT.. 
     Drench with 568 ml or 1 pint paraffin with 28 gram or 1oz each of chalk,
charcoal,
soda bicarb, with 7 ml or 1/4 ounce each of  bismuth, sal, glucose and mucilage. 
Feed on greenstuff, hay, boiled grain, bran and chaff, or what he fancies most .  

 NEW FOAL JAUNDICE.. 
     He is usually healthy for about 3 days then jaundice sets in and death follows.
The
problem a lack of red blood cells. 
 
TREATMENT .. 
    Pick a healthy horse, draw a little blood from him into a bottle, add  about 1
percent
of citrate of soda. 
Do the same with the mother, put it in another bottle, test the donors sample,
against
the dams serum to be sure that agglutination does NOT occur,  Get the hospital,
or vet
to check it. If suitable take two litres of blood from the donor and citrate it.  Take
1500cc of blood from the foal and dispose of it. Now put into the foal, per the
jugular
vein the donors 2 litres of blood. 
         
                   CHAPTER TWELVE
   CASTING A HORSE .THROWING..
     The necessary gear may be a strong halter, a strong neck rope, one throwing
rope
50 foot long, 2 small side ropes 20 foot long, and a sandbag. 
The sandbag is to place over the horses neck when he is  down, to stop him
throwing
his head about, and trying to get up. 
The idea is to have weighted bags, each side of the neck of the horse to pin his
neck,
without choking him. 
   Throw him in a small yard.  Tie the center of the throwing rope, using it
doubled,
around the lower neck of the horse, use a non slipping knot, eg a bowline knot, to
make
the collar.  Tie some of his mane to the collar, to stop the loop from being thrown
off
the horse, if he moves his head quickly.  The two collar ropes are brought between
his
front legs, down the inside of the hind legs, and around both of the back fetlocks
and
back up through the collar. Have strong men pull on both of the ropes, to fall the
horse
onto his haunches.  Then roll him onto his side, and place your sandbag on his
neck. 
Strap one front fetlock, by looping a strap or rope around the fetlock twice, bend
his
knee and strap the fetlock  back to the same leg, forearm.  This restrains one front
leg. 
Adjust the top collar rope, to move his back hoof just forward of his stifle, the rope
is
tied in a bow and let go soon. 
Tie a small rope in place on the bottom back fetlock, this rope is passed under the
horse
and back to the hoof on the topside rear fetlock, holding firmly the two rear back
legs
up against the horses stomach, do it while rolling him on to his back. 
Strap the other front leg to its mate around the shins.  Tie the back legs
diagonally to
the front legs, and make sure the rope under the back of the horse, is in front of
his
stifle. Have one man hold his head, now you are ready to operate. 
 
    CASTRATING YOUR HORSE. 1950's. STYLE.....
     Have these items ready, a castrator, knife, artery forceps, 
clean rags, iodine, and a container of boiled water for the 
castrator, plus a bucket of boiled water cooling down, with some added dettol. 
The man operating must be clean, with hands disinfected.     
 Clean the area you intend to operate on, but not inside the sheath.  Smear the
area you
will cut with iodine. Hold one testicle firmly by the cord, your hand squeezed in
below 
it and make a cut the length of the testicle, with the line of the body. Cut through
the
layers till you expose your target. 
Pull the testicle through gently, and examine it. You will see a mass of blood
vessels at
one end attached,  and another thinner support containing two tubes.   Cut
through the
thin part, and put the emasculator on the blood vessels section, with the cutting
edge to
the testicle and crush the cord. Don`t hurry. Keep it on for a few minutes. 
Apply the artery forceps above the emasculator on the cord.
These  help to hold the cord, and stop retraction of the cord as you release the
emasculators, so you  can check  the crushing to see if it is effective.  The smaller
tubes
you cut through were the tendons of the muscle that draws the testes up.              
  
Remove the emasculator but leave the artery forceps in place.
Take out the second testicle through a second cut, and use the same action,
remove the
emasculator slowly, so as not to start the bleeding. If bleeding occurs with the
forceps
off, put the forceps back on the bleeder, to halt bleeding. Wash out the wound
gently
with disinfected water, previously boiled, using clean rags to remove blood.
  If finished apply olive oil into and around the purse. 
 Some variations are, garden lime in the purse, and an optional cut between the
two cuts
in the purse, for drainage purposes. 


   BUSH VERSION WITHOUT EMASCULATORS..
     Have an  open fire going with pieces of iron heating to red hot. Have an
assistant
bring the hot iron to you, then sear off the  sections of the cords with the veins in
them.
Don`t hurry do a good job of sealing them. Pick up the hot iron with fencing pliers,
or
horse shoe pincers or such. Treat as above .
    Bushmen Stockmen and Drovers have calf cut horses over the years using only
a
pocket knife. A quick job with the horse let up almost immediately to trot away.
The trotting was said to have helped the healing process. Most of them survived
the
rough treatment.                                                                 
         SMALL ONES.. 
 
   When the testicle is small and hard to reach, cut through where you would
normally, 
and the testicle will be seen covered with his tunic.  Hold it and cut through the
tunic to
expose the testicle and operate in the  above suggested manner. 
The artery forceps are handy to bring down a testicle, by pulling its tunic or its
tissue
gently.  The wound heals quicker if it doesn`t bleed much, and there is less
swelling. 
Bleeding wounds also heal usually, but  death can occur and a few horses die . 
      After a week open the purse and drain any fluid build up.  Disinfect the area
or
have the horse given exercise. Chase him around to drain his purse, to promote
rapid
healing.  The sheath may swell up large, lance it on both sides to drain it of fluid. 
 
              HIDDEN TESTICLES..
One or both testicles may fail to come down from the bowels . If neither testis
comes
down, he cannot usually breed but  with one down in the normal area, yes he can. 
Hidden testicles are best left to the Vet, as it is a dangerous operation at any
time. 
         
      CHAPTER THIRTEEN   

              CHLOROFORMING YOUR HORSE  1950s. 
     Use a sponge saturated in chloroform , to dose him. Use up to 85 grams or 3oz
of
it. While pulling him up to a post, hold a small bag over his nose with the sponge
in
the bottom up against his nose.  He will struggle and become  drunk and fall over.
Stretch him out with leg ropes. 
After one minute, remove the sponge and put 28 grams or 1oz more on it, place it
close
to the nostrils but do not stop some airflow to him, as he must get it mixed with
air.
  If undiluted, the vapour can stop his heart or breathing. Watch his eye as the
chloroform gets hold.
His eye rolls back and forth, the rolling stops and he is under. Check his
breathing
constantly. Slow and regular is ok.If it becomes shallow or stops, remove the bag
quickly to give him air and artificial respiration if necessary.
As he comes out of it his eye will roll a bit and focus again and stop. Help him up
as
he will be still drunk and unstable, and will need balance and your support . 
                                                     
               STITCHING WOUNDS.. 
 
     Most people would like to stitch  wounds in horses. Some wounds will heal
naturally, without stitching.  Wounds where there is movement don`t hold stitches
well. 
On a site where there is little movement of the skin, insert a few deep strong
stitches, to
retain the wound edges properly in shape, plus small stitches to pull the edges
together. 
Leave a drainage gap at the low end of the wound, for any discharge .
If stitching, restrain the animal properly by crush or rope. 
Local anaesthetic can be injected between the skin and the flesh at the wound
site, if its
available.  Move in 1 inch steps and give a few drops.  Move another inch around
the
wound and inject again etc. You insert the needle in the wound opening, between
hide
and the flesh or meat.  This method is fairly painless, do it all around the wound 
border. Be sure the wound is clear of any foreign matter, hanging flaps of skin if
not
too large, remove them.  Clean the wound, wash it with peroxide use one part
peroxide
to five parts water. Try small packing needles for stitching, get stitching thread
from a
chemist, soak thread and needle in disinfectant.
Start your work, stitch the wound together.  Start at the centre and select where
you
should pull it together. Start 1 inch in from the cut edge, and pull together loosely,
tieing bows, for later adjustment.  Put all the stitches in and readjust the edges
properly. 
Untie, tighten and retie, of the individual stitch bow knots. Have a small
disinfectant
soaked rag in the lower drain hole, that can be pulled out in a few days to help
with the
drainage . 
 
      PNEUMONIA.. 
     Bronchitis, pleurisy, congestion of the lungs, and pneumonia and other chest
troubles are found in all animals. 
They can lead to fatal pneumonia, caused sometimes by a neglected cold, or being
wet
in a cold wind or draft. Also caused by drenching down the windpipe, quite often
fatal
to the animal.  Influenza can become pneumonia. 
Racehorses sometimes get it after a hard race, and die within three days. Acute
pneumonia is very quick to start and to kill horses, after over exertion.                 
                                      
          SYMPTOMS ..

     The first noticeable symptoms are : off his tucker, standing very quiet, faster
breathing, temperature up to 105 degrees plus he appears sick.
 
         OLD  TREATMENT.. 
     If the disease has properly developed, don't bleed him. Give him salty enemas,
1
gallon three times a day, the mix 1 cup of salt to 4 gallons of water . 
Rug him and keep him out of the wind, feed him good tucker, while he eats he can
possibly recover . Give him 10 drops each of the following, tincture of aconite, fluid
extract of nux vomica, plus fluid extract of digitalis,  mix with some honey . Give
it
every four hours onto his tongue, at the back of it.     Keep going until the fever
drops. 
         ALTERNATIVE TREATMENT.. 
     Also try 7 ml  of potassium iodine, in the drinking water bucket. Dose him
twice
daily, plus 3 ml of quinine in honey on the tongue twice a day. Glucose on the feed
also helps him.  What ever glucose  he will take, will warm him and build
strength.                
         
      YET ANOTHER.. MIXTURE                                
     Another mixture is as follows, 28 ml or 1 oz potassium iodine dissolved in  a
pint
of water, with 1 oz of quinine bisulphate stir well. It will make 8 doses ,so give 1
dose
every 3 hours with 1 teaspoon of fluid extract of nux vomica  per dose, on the
tongue. 
Don`t use all of the mixtures specified together. They are 
separate treatments. After 8 doses miss a day to avoid a drug
overdose and side effects.  
       FOAL PNEUMONIA.. 
     Foals can get it. They can appear sleepy or be comatose showing some of the
symptoms. Auromycin, given 500mg in the vein daily, can cure . 
             PINKEYE FLU 
     Its symptoms are weakness, high temperature, swollen legs, and the white of
the
eye can be reddish, and sometimes a bit yellow jaundiced. liver trouble. Rested
and
nursed    by you, he  should recover. If worked hard, or in acute 
cases, pneumonia strikes with death ahead.  
                       TREAT WITH.. 
     Enemas twice daily, of salty water a total of 4 gallons, OR 18 litres and use
iodum
drenches, diuretic powders, and sulfamide drugs. 
The sulfa drugs are good for all infections of a horse such as colds, flu, pneumonia,
and
infected wounds . 
 
 [ OLD STYLE ]         SULFA DRUGS DOSAGE.. 
                        1 ounce solid = 28.3 grams 
                        1 ounce liquid = 28.4 ml
 Try sulfanilamide internally to treat the above conditions under pinkeye
discussed,
Dose him 1 grain per pound of body weight a day, eg, if a horse weighs 1000
pounds
give him 1000 grains every 24 hours. 1000 grains is nearly 2 ounces, so give 2
doses  1
ounce each 2 times daily till you get improvement in the horse. 
    Give it in a drench to the stomach mixed with bicarbonate of soda, an equal
amount,
in a litre of water. 
  If it is a bad case, in a grown horse give 3 ounces, the first 2 days and come back
to
2 ounces, from day 3 on till improvement occurs. Don't use epsom salts, or any
sulpha
by product at the same time, or sulpha poisoning may happen. Too much
sulphanilamide can cause death.  It causes anaemia plus swelling of the kidneys
and can
kill the red blood cells.  Check his temperature twice a day and compare
temperatures.
If it rises 2 degrees in a day you are giving too much to him. Stop using it on him
. 
                   


                   CHAPTER FOURTEEN
           SKIN TROUBLES..
     One skin disease is called Aphis. It is a form of eczema and can be caused by
eating leguminous plants, that have been exposed to the sun and its ultraviolet
rays.
It can effect horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs. The white skin turns purple, gets
swelled
and itchy and serum oozes through the skin. The effect, yellow scabs over the area
and
hair loss. Sheep suffer terribly from this eczema on the face and ears and jaundice
can
set in.
    
    TREAT WITH..
     Provide shade for the animal in daylight, keep them off the legumes and try
staining
the white skin, by using a mixture of soot and oil or fat, or painting with condys
crystal
liquid or blue lotion or other stains.     (condys crystal  was used as a snake bite
remedy  in the 1950s  by drovers and stockmen .  After applying a tornaquet
above the
bite  the bite holes were opened  and the venom sucked out . Then a grain of
condys
crystal was applied to each bite hole.  One poison counteracted the other?)
If suffering the disease use blue lotion, solid absorbine ,
liniment, oil, vaseline, and definitely zinc oxide cream .
And try knob blue water, red ochre, or other stains.
    
BURNS AND GRAVEL RASH..
     Around the fetlocks after collar roping, you can have rope burns from our
struggling horse, or damage to fetlocks when he gets tangled when tethered out on
grass.     If the fetlock has a blister on it, do not bust it for 2 days or more, it
protects
the new skin.
         
   TREAT..
     Put on soothing liniment every day or zinc cream  or talcum powder and olive
oil
to heal, or perhaps tannic acid, picric acid solution, and carrion oil respectively .

              EAR TROUBLES..
     Something in the ear? It may be sand, grass, seeds, or insects or even eczema
causing the itch or tickle.
It is spotted when your horse shakes his head or scratches his ear, the ear may
have a
discharge coming from it.
              
TREAT WITH..
     Peroxide full strength from the bottle, after clearing his ear of any rubbish
with
soapy water. Clear any wax away, and put in a glycerine and belladonna               
                       
mixture, or basalm of gilead, brown greasy heel ointment, or olive oil.
If there is a discharge, try a piric acid solution followed by one of the glycerine etc
remedies directly above this variation.
                        ECZEMA..
     Affecting mainly dogs, it can attack the heels of horses. In dogs it may be
moist or
weeping, or dry and scaly try picric acid solution, iodine, or sulphur ointment.
         WORMS..
     Worms can do the horse harm in various ways such as:
By sucking the blood making anaemia and weakening the animal they also eat
away the
surface of the bowel allowing poisonous microbes into the system, the horses
disease
resistance drops. Worms make their own poisons which get into the system, and
the
horses condition falls back.  The worm larvae burrows through the system getting
into
all of the organs, through the blood, lymph, kidneys, liver, and lungs, making it
easier
for diseases to get into the system. Worms upset digestion, producing gastric
troubles
and near starvation. Keep the worms out of horses for very good healthy animals.
Colic
is less likely also. The main worms are stomach worms 
who make lumps or tumors in the stomach walls, and gastrophi lilus or bots [
which
see.] In the small intestine we have round worms and tapeworms.  Large intestine
holds
red worms and pin worms. In the stomach thread worms make fibre like tumors
quite
large and round containing a nest of worms. 
 If these turn into abscesses, a hole  develops in the stomach which bursts,
developing
deadly peritonitis which can kill him.  Bot bombs can help if it doesn`t get to the
peritonitis stage. There can be a large white worm a few inches long in the small
intestine. If there are many, chronic catarrh of the bowels may occur, or diarrhoea
in
foals. Sometimes they can cause a stoppage and block bowel action, and cause a
bad
colic which can kill. Kick the worms out with bot bombs.
The bowel can have two dangerous worms the small red worm and the large
greenish
worm who looks like a large pin. If heavily infested with either or both worms
they can
cause a fatal fever. During early stages of these worms the larvae of the
strongylus,
lives in the large arteries near the big one the aorta. They weaken the walls of
these
arteries and make large growths in 
them and can cause colic which sometimes kills the horse.  If enough damage
occurs to
an artery he may bleed to death. So if he suffers colic often suspect worm
aneurisms
and treat him for it.    See your local vet or vet product supplier.
       So....worm your horse mate!!

    A PRE WORMING PURGE DRENCH..
     Prior to worming it may help to purge your horse before or during the worming
use
castor or linseed oil plus some of these, turpentine 56 ml or  2 ounces, and
naphthalin 7
grams,  mixed with the oil and put in his stomach,  by drenching him  with about
a pint
of the mixture. < Do not purge mares that are heavy with foal. > 



              AN OLD PURGE VARIATION ..
     Give every day for a week ,the daily dose:
sulphate of iron exsiccated 14 grams,
tartar emetic               7  grams,
arsenic            5 to    10 grains,
areca nut        8 grams,              
kamala     14 grams,
naphthalin            4 grams ,
mixed as a drench in 1 pint of water with treacle.
                                                 
    
WORMING FOALS..

     The one to worry about is the strongyles type in the large bowel.  The larvae
start
the trouble. Hatching from their eggs, they bore through the bowel into the glands
and
the blood vessels.  So tumors or abscesses may develop in the vital organs, and the
large arteries of the stomach and deprive him of a healthy life. Sometimes holed
arteries
let him bleed to death .  It can happen as early as 4 months of age so get in early
and
stop the strongyles. Country that horses live in is infested with worm eggs, on the
grass
usually.
Worm the mare a week  after she foals and every few months that follow. Our foal
can
be wormed at 3, 6, and 9 months old. To treat both for worms give her 4 grams of
phenothiazine in a meal, every day for 3 weeks in each month.
As the foal grows and eats it with the mother he gets dosed too. If you feed him
alone
give him 2 grams per meal a day 
for 3 weeks.  Continue on past the weaning process giving separate doses of 2
grams
phenothiazine to the mare and foal.
   BOT TREATMENT FOR FOALS..
     Put in milk 15cc of carbon bilsulphide, given as a drench, if he will not drink it
or
use the stomach tube drench method.
    BOT DESCRIPTION ..
     Bots are larvae maggots laid by bot or gad flies with 3 varieties of them
including
the nose, the throat,  and the 
common bot fly. They can cause inflammation and colic plus
abscesses which can become peritonitis. Our horse looks 
emaciated and hidebound. Bots live in the stomach for around 10 months and
their
parasitic life is finished.  They come out with the manure, then they bury
themselves in
the soil and come out a few weeks later as bot flies to start the circle again.
The fly lays his eggs on the horses hair, different types lay in their selected areas.
Some
deposit eggs on jowl or neck and some prefer legs. Each egg is laid singly on the
horse
hairs. Depending on the weather or the sweat, hatching periods vary. They can
stay on
the horse hair a long time unhatched .
When larvae hatch from the eggs licked up by the horse. They get into the
membrane
of the lips tongue and gums and stay for about 4 weeks and moult. Returning to
the
mouth they are swallowed and when in the stomach they attach to the walls .
Prevent the eggs from getting into your horse. When you see them,  bath the bot
eggs [
they look like little yellow balls on horse hair ] with hot water. This makes the
eggs
hatch, and the bots are washed away .

    BOT LARVAE..
     Bot larvae get into the horses mouth in several ways, being licked up falling
into
food etc. On reaching the stomach, anal bots live for some time in the stomach,
then let
go and move to the rectal wall. Other bots can attach to the intestine past the
stomach
and block the liver duct upsetting the bile duct, causing liver problems and
biliousness.
Bots are a nuisance to the horse, firstly as an irritating fly laying its eggs.  He
may be
caused to bolt wildly by the fly, and secondly the larvae cause stomach trouble in
the
digestive tract.
    TREAT WITH ..
 Bot paste from your vet supplier, worm him every few months.
          OLD TREATMENT for BOTS..
Double strength flukure 30 to 50 cc, 
or carbon tetrachloride and paraffin, 
or single strength 50 to 100 cc carbon bisulphide,
in capsules 4 to 8 drams used as a ball on the back of the tongue. 
         
         CHAPTER FIFTEEN     
        GIVING MEDICINES..
     On the outside of a horse you can apply liniments, poultices, blisters, foments
or
ointments. Inside; by a needle into a vein or under the skin, with a suitable
syringe;  in
a paste on the back of the tongue; powders mixed with drinking water, or feed,
pills or
balls put on the back of the tongue; or by drenching with a stomach tube or
breathing
in. When you give an injection be sure the area you needle is clean. Paint the spot
with
iodine before putting the needle in.
Fill the needle, without air bubbles, over full, and squirt back the excess till you
have
the correct mils level in the syringe.  Put the needle in and wait till he stops
fidgeting 
and draw back with the syringe plunger to check if you are in a blood vessel, if
you are
not drawing back blood, inject  the mixture. In horses and cattle  inject in the side
of
the neck, or behind the shoulder. After injecting rub with a downward movement
to
assist the spreading of a big injection of fluid.  Poultices are made from mixing
bran,
bread, linseed, etc with boiling water plus a few drops of disinfectant, as hot as
the
animal can stand, secured in place and left 24 hours on the horse.   Foments,
apply hot
water or blankets wrung out in hot water, and put over an affected area which
increases
the flow of new blood through the affected area . 
 
       PHYSIC BALLS, AS THEY WERE IN THE FIFTIES.. 

Physic balls come in sizes between 2 and 6 . 
Give a racehorses yearling size NO 2 
     a 2 and a half year old    NO 2 1/2 
     aged or light barrel type  NO 3 
     aged but solid horse       NO 3 1/2 
     a big solid horse          NO 4 
   draught horses vary from     NO 4 1/2 to 6 
              BY HORSE TYPE..                                           
      BY HORSE TYPE     2 yrs   3 yrs 4 yrs plus                     . . .
Hack and thorough bred  2.5     3    4 
Pony                    2       2.5  3.5 
Medium                  2.5     3    4.5 
Heavy                   2.5     3.5  5 
Draught                 3       4    5 or 6 
  





GIVING THE PHYSIC BALLS TO OUR HORSE..
First get another person to hold his head firmly by a halter and possibly by one
ear,
make the ball slippery by spitting on it.  Pull the horses tongue out and hold it in
the
corner of his mouth. This keeps the horses mouth open a little while.  Place the
ball on
the back of the tongue, from between your extended fingers, behind the thick part
at the
back of the tongue.  Let go of his tongue and pull your hand out quickly. While
holding
his mouth shut you can watch his neck for a sign of the ball, slipping   down the
left
side of his neck into his gullet. If you have a gag use it.
                                     
A HOME MADE BALLING GUN..
Use a piece of hose rubber or polythene, large and long enough to pass the ball to
the
back of his tongue. Push it through with a stick or something suitable. Remember
you
must pull his tongue out to its extended position, to be successful, or the ball can
wind
up in his mouth .

    THESE OLD BUSH REMEDIES ARE ONLY INCLUDED 
AS A MATTER  OF INTEREST,  OF HOW IT WAS 50 YEARS
AGO .  OLD TECHNOLOGY  WILL  NOT REPLACE THE NEW.



                        
     HORSE PROBLEMS & SOLUTIONS FROM THE 1950's 

WON'T STAND STILL

If  a Drover's horse  wouldn't stand still for the Drover to get on him.  (Or if the
horse was a vicious type
that might kick strike or bite you when you tried to get on him.)
  The horse was tied up to a tree with a stout halter, tied to a tree 5 feet off the
ground so he couldn't step
over the halter rope, and throw himself.
 Then a pair of hobbles was fitted to his front fetlocks. ( Or with the vicious one a
hobble strap was applied 
to one fetlock. Then the hobble chain was passed around the other fetlock and the
strap was fastened to the first
fetlock above the other strap. ) Now the drover could mount and his mate could
take the hobbles off  this
horse.
Done a few times the horse learned to stand to let the drover on .

IF A HORSE BAILS UP

If a horse refuses to move forward.  Tie its head to one side  and bump it on the
other with your heel
making it walk in circles. Do this on both sides until the horse is quite happy to
walk ahead when asked
to.

REARS OVER ONTO THE RIDER 

The Drover held a horse down, after that horse had reared over on top of him . He
beat the horse on the
ground, every time it did so. The horse learned not to rear over.


CATCH A BRUMBY OR UNBROKEN HORSE 

Two riders chase the horse they want to catch  at the gallop, they are mounted on
thoroughbred horses
sure of  foot and wind. These horses have been worked hard and
conditioned  and are ready for the chase.  Then together these riders gallop up on
either side of the
selected horse.  Now when the horse is pinned between the two horsemen  on the
move, one man  uses
a stirrup leather around the Brumby horses' neck to choke it down, while still on
the move.   The caught
horse goes to ground starving for air, and the riders go down with it.  One man
controls the air flow of
the horse to keep it weak, while the other man saddles and bridles the new mount
on the ground.     Now
with a strong halter and heavy lead rope on the new mount,  controlled by the
other rider,  one rider
holds his hat over its eye as he gets slowly into the saddle. The stirrup leather is
removed and now the
horse gets up to be led and coached in the ways of a saddle horse.
The horse gets broken in on the move and will probably be a bit hard mouthed
using this rough method on him.