FOREWORD

     This account was prepared to help horses and to point out possible
problems with their health and well being. Hopefully
it will mean our friend the horse is better understood by the 
ordinary horse owner. I am biased in the horses favour, but he 
needs a spokesman. If he could talk you would get an earful
in his best interests. The old remedies are in there to show
you how he was cared for, forty years and more into the past 
they are not intended or expected  to compete with modern medicine .
          The horse breaking methods are likely to produce a 
horse that has little fear of man but adequate respect  for 
his rider. No doubt you have seen horses so brutalized that 
they are a nervous wreck , shivering with fear when man comes near. 
     Properly treated in the training stage of their education 
most young horses will respond , temper tantrums of the trainer 
make a nervous horse, remain calm if possible.
     Treat your young horse like a new girlfriend, you must try to be gentle
and to win her confidence love and respect.
There are some similarities if you think on it.
                         
          I would like to thank  Don & Nell  Johnson of
Dirranbandi, who supplied a lot of the information on the subject of
horses and horse history.   
               D H Johnson.







               CONTENTS



PART ONE

CHAPTER ONE                                       PAGE 1

HORSE BREAKING  A DIFFERENT METHOD

CHAPTER TWO                                       PAGE 4

LEADING.  APPROACH ON FOOT. SADDLE UP.


CHAPTER THREE                                PAGE 7

LEAD HIM ON HORSEBACK. LEAD HIM ON FOOT.                    


CHAPTER FOUR                                 PAGE 9

TIE HIM UP. MOUTH HIM. DRIVE HIM IN REINS.


CHAPTER FIVE                                 PAGE 12

RIDE HIM. EDUCATION. TURNING. CATCHING.

CHAPTER SIX                                       PAGE 15

USING A CRUSH. 

CHAPTER SEVEN                                PAGE 17

BRUMBY RUNNING. HARNESS. 










PART TWO


CHAPTER ONE                                       PAGE 21                                 
   
BUSH LOGIC. BULLOCKYS. 

CHAPTER TWO                                  PAGE 23

FOALS. BREEDING. 

CHAPTER THREE                                PAGE 26

HORSE SENSE. 

CHAPTER FOUR                                 PAGE 29

MORE BUSH LOGIC. 


CHAPTER FIVE                                      PAGE 32

SELECTING A HORSE.

CHAPTER SIX                                       PAGE 34

TRACKING. 

CHAPTER SEVEN                                PAGE 36

PRODUCING FOALS.

CHAPTER EIGHT                                PAGE 39

FINDING YOUR WAY IN THE BUSH.
















PART THREE


CHAPTER ONE                                       PAGE 44

OLD BUSH REMEDIES

CHAPTER TWO                                       PAGE 48

PROUD FLESH. GALLS. & SITFAST.

CHAPTER THREE                                PAGE 52

COLIC.

CHAPTER FOUR                                 PAGE 57

STRANGLES.

CHAPTER FIVE                                      PAGE 59

TEETH. 

CHAPTER SIX                                       PAGE 64

FEEDING

CHAPTER SEVEN                                PAGE 71

CRIB BITING. TETANUS. TICKS. LAMENESS. STRINGHALT. 

CHAPTER EIGHT                                PAGE 77

SPAVIN. OVER REACHING. SANDCRACKS. 

CHAPTER NINE                                      PAGE 83

FISTULA. ARTHRITIS. BIRDSVILLE DISEASE. AZOTURIA.

CHAPTER TEN                                       PAGE 86

PARALYSIS. BROKEN BONES. SWAMP CANCER.


 




CHAPTER ELEVEN                               PAGE 89

SORE  BACKS. JAUNDICE. 


CHAPTER TWELVE                               PAGE 91

CASTRATION. 

CHAPTER THIRTEEN                                  PAGE 94

CHLOROFORMING. STITCHING WOUNDS. PNEUMONIA.


CHAPTER FOURTEEN                             PAGE 99

SKIN TROUBLES. WORMS. 

CHAPTER FIFTEEN                                   PAGE 105

GIVING MEDICINES. 



If you make a copy from this site 
send me a dollar its alright
Don Johnson
3 south stn rd Booval 4304
Ipswich Queensland Australia
 

         
                                    PART ONE
                                               CHAPTER ONE  
            HORSE BREAKING A VERY DIFFERENT METHOD..
     Horse gentling is my preference, I do not believe in horse breaking or bronco
busting, the word should be gentling of coming to terms with your horse.
    The bronco buster ropes a young horse,  and snubs him to a  post.  The horse 
chokes
down on the rope several times, and belts his head on the snubbing post, possibly
caving
in his forehead  or maybe breaking his neck.  When he has no resistance left he is
saddled
and bridled, with a big jaw breaker type of mexican bit in his soft mouth.   He is
mounted
by a rider, who  spurs the poor bloody horse into submission.   He is bashed and
belted
until he makes the required moves for his cruel master.   This treatment often
leaves the
horse sour, with a hatred for man, and no wonder. I will say no more about these
jokers
who waste their time.
               HORSE BREAKERS .. THE STANDARD TYPE..   
 This fellow might throw his rope to catch the horse.  Once looped he wraps the
other end
around a fence post.   The frightened horse races forward and slams into a fence,
caving
his head in or gouging out an eye.  Or it gets to the end of the rope and breaks its
neck
quite easily, particularly in a square or oblong yard.  Some use a roping pole in
the  round
yard to get the rope on his neck. This frightens the horse and it takes some time
to settle 
down.  It is then pulled to a snubbing post in the middle of the round yard, or a
post in
the yard. Worse still it will be flopped with a bag on a stick, so called Bagging.
While the
horse is choking and being bagged, it may, out of fear, bang its head on the fence. 
While
struggling, it may smash teeth  or break its neck.  It can be wind broken at the
same time.
This is part of the usual method used in horse breaking tried and recommended
by most
men in the game. 
          MY METHODS USE LESS FEAR OF MAN ..  
 I did know Leo Casey the legendary horse breaker, who is of the same opinion as
myself
about horse breaking.  He used to make a loop in a short rope  and hang it in a
wire hook
on the fence of the round yard, making a snare loop.  When the horse was trotted
around
the yard he looped himself and took the short rope with him.   All Leo would say
was,
" Got ya mate ".  In the round yard at the same time he would have his own quiet
saddle
horse. He then mounted his horse and picked up the  end of the horse catching
rope. Then
he pulled the catching rope under his horse`s neck from the offside to the
nearside.
Bringing it over the wither of his own horse, he tied it to the rope again with a
hitch. 
After tieing the two horses together, he would gradually bring the young horse to
him, by
walking or trotting his own horse along side the young one , as in nature around
the yard. 
When he got it in close to his saddle horse, he would put his hand out and let the
young
horse smell him.  After a little while he would rub it under the eye,
 casting no fear into the animal.   Eventually he would rub it down all over.
                    ON GOES THE HALTER ..
    Later a halter hanging on the yard would be taken and put on the young horse.
The
catching rope could then be taken off the young horse.  The halter lead replaces
the
catching rope, in the above manner, under the neck of the horse being ridden and
tied in
place. Now Leo could pull on the halter with the rope around the chest of his
saddle




 horse,  to teach the young horse to stand.  And by the motion of his right hand to
go
forward.    Gently patting it along, he could teach it to turn right or left, and to
travel on a
lead rope with his horse.  You can tell by the nature of the horse how soon you can
dismount, and walk up to him and let him smell your hand.  Talking to him as
you go
forward, rub his nose and rub him under the eye, the kindest place you can touch
a horse. 
Do not rub him under the jaw or between the bottom jaws, near the mouth.  There
is a
nerve centre there which upsets him, and he won`t like it.  He may try  to strike
you with
his front hooves.  
                                                            
     Strange horses meeting for the first time, can adopt a fighting stance.  They
will grab
for the jaw first, if they  miss, may grab the wither or back of the front leg. 
        


      I have used this horse gentling method
on many occasions, with great success. 
 



                   CHAPTER TWO
            LEADING AN UNBROKEN HORSE HOME ..                    
 Sometimes, I`ve tied the halter rope to a good strong saddle horse,  and tied their
tails
together with a hitch and a bit of binding twine.  Then in this manner, I have
taken many
young unbroken horses home, sometimes several miles distant, talking to them
and
handling them on the journey.  I have done this on many occasions and have
never lost a
young horse.  But you must have confidence in your breaking in horse, to know
that he
will hold the young horse and do the job you set him.     Test him with the young
one in
the yard, before you attempt to go away.  You will know in a little while around
the yard,
if he can do it.    Any good stout saddle horse should be good enough, all finished
inside
an hour. When you open the main gate of the stockyard be ready for the young
horse.  He
will try to escape, and will make an effort to leave you  as you go out the gate. 
With a
firm hand on the reins of your  horse, bring your saddle horse around to the
nearside.
Turn left sharply, forcing the young one to come with you, until it realizes you still
have
control of it.                                                                                 

 Soon it will settle down, this treatment does work in practice as I have proved
many
times.

          APPROACH HIM ON FOOT ..       
    Back to the horse gentling, back in the round yard you can now approach the
young
horse on foot.  The experienced eye can tell if a horse is approachable on foot.  Go
up the
rope and let him smell you and rub him under the eye. Things to look for when
coming
near to him. If he snorts or pulls back, lays his ears back, rolls his eyes or shakes
his head
from side to side, he may be unapproachable on foot.  He may strike kick or bite
you.  In
this case get back on your horse and pick up the catching rope again, make a loop
around
his neck and tie a knot that won't slip. Perhaps a bowline knot so he won't choke. 
Bring
the end of the rope back through the loop, leaving a trailing loop on the ground.
While 
moving watch his nearside back leg. When he stands in the loop, pull up the rope
quickly
from your saddle horse. The back foot should be about a foot off the ground, tie a
knot
and the young horse is now collar roped. It will need to be done quickly, to prevent
kicking and chafing of the back of the hind fetlock, this can burn the hair off
leaving it
raw. Horses that are collar roped for the first time may throw themselves down, so
do it
where he won`t hurt himself At this point go through the motions, let him smell
you rub
his forehead and under his eye. Keep him calm.  You can now pat this horse all
over and
he can`t hurt you, unless he falls on you.  He cannot kick or strike you.  A fierce
horse
will indicate to you whether he will bite.  If he is a vicious horse he will lay his
ears back
or roll his eyes, but I don`t think so now. It is possible to touch this horse
anywhere now.
Even castrate it if you know how. You can certainly pull its tail to a decent level,
about
the hock .  Pull the mane and get the burrs out of it to a suitable length. A good
time now
to teach him to halter,  approach the horse from the front, and take it off, and put
it on, a
few times.  As many as you can.  When putting it on, always put the halter shank
around
his neck to hold him, whilst doing so.  You should not work a young horse any
longer
than 2 hours in any one day. Sometimes less than 2 hours, as he may go sour in
confinement  and training. He may also fret if put in a stable after work.  At this
point, he
would be better turned out in the horse paddock,  with the rest of the horses and
to feel
his freedom again.  He will come in fresh in the morning.        

     STOP HIM GOING SOUR ..
     During the handling of a young horse you may find when they start to sweat,
they
may become stubborn and unmovable.  This is an indication they are turning sour,
pull the
halter off and let him go. It`s time for a break, next morning back to the round
yard with
your breaking in horse.  It may be possible while riding around the yard at a walk
or
steady trot, to get the halter shank around his neck.  Now stop and put the halter
on him. 
He should now be at a stage to get up along side of him, and to drop the catching
rope
around his neck.  Then put the halter on him, use the halter shank to hold him as
you do
it.
                    SADDLE UP..
    If he is very flighty and fractious I recommend the leg rope again, after pulling
up the
hind leg again.  Ease the saddle blanket on carefully and saddle and girth him up. 
Take
your time, talk to him, reassure him, while you do it. You can actually crawl all
over that
horse, take your time patting with both hands everywhere.   Talking to him as you
go over
him thoroughly.  Do not put your foot in the stirrup iron while he is collar roped 
as your
weight will likely pull the horse off balance, and he will fall to the nearside with
you.  It
would be quite easy after you take the saddle off to quietly climb on his back. 
Run your
hands up and down his legs, several times to the hooves and back.  After 20
minutes of
this treatment it should be safe to remove the collar  rope,  off the back leg.           
       
                
                                     




                    CHAPTER THREE
                                TRY THIS NOW ..             
    You can then try approaching him in the normal manner.  Rub him down
around the
head and withers and possibly pick up his feet.  Remember to hold his head
towards you
on the nearside, as you attempt to pick up  a nearside leg by the fetlock.  If his
head is
firmly brought to the nearside he can not kick you. If he tries, pull on the halter
rope to
stop him.   He has to turn right away from you to be able to kick you.   You may
be able
to do all the things you have done previously, when he was collar roped and had
his leg
tied up. If the horse is still not leading good enough on horseback, which is
probably true
at this stage, make a loop in your catching rope and throw it over his rump. While
riding
your horse in the yard, lead the young one around the circle in the round yard.  It
may
take a slight tug on the rump rope, to encourage the young horse to travel with
your
saddle horse.  You could even take him out in the big yard now and do the same.
After a
while you will discover you can discard the head rope behind his rump. So you
have
taught him to lead on horse back. 
     
                  LEAD HIM ON FOOT ..
    Now back in the round yard.  Dismount and see if you can lead both horses
together,  
around the yard.  It will need to be done quite a lot, until he gets used to doing it. 
Remove your saddle horse from the yard, and you can probably lead him, by the
halter.  If
he is not leading and turning by then, change over to a long yard, 12 to 20 feet
wide and
twice as long. Now encourage the horse to go past you, between you and the fence. 
 Each
time he passes you, on the end of the rope,  down the fence line, pull him back
towards
you, in 
the centre of the yard.  Then  let him go the other way and do the same,  
teaching him to
turn left and right as you require him to do.   This way you are making the horse
do most
of the hard work,   and you are not just dragging a horse, to the left and the right
which
puts the strain on you all the time and you are just pulling on his head to lead
him. After
you do this for 20 minutes he will be breathing hard puffing a bit. So will you. 
Now pull
him towards you and keep pulling, even if he only takes a couple of steps.  Keep
pulling
and reward him with a rub on the forehead and under the eye.  In this manner he
should
learn to lead.  If he is still stubborn and won`t move back into the round yard, put
the
head rope around his rump again.  And use it to take him around several times. 
Reward
him each time with a rub under the eye when he leads.

                                                       
                    HE WONT LEAD??? ..
     At this stage most people are impatient.  If he won`t lead by this time there is
an
answer.   Hold him, a halter lead length away, by the halter rope, and have a
whip trailing
on the ground.  If he won`t move forward give him a flick behind the front
fetlocks.  Use
the whip, it will sting and make him move about and come towards you.  As you
lead him
forward, use this process on stubborn horses until they lead properly. Any horse
broken in
to lead by this method will lead anywhere, up a ramp, anywhere you`d like to take
him.  I
don`t believe in too much whip.  But most old time horse breakers will tell you to
use it if
necessary.  They couldn`t all be wrong. Still again it can be over done, so be sure
you
don`t. 


                               CHAPTER FOUR                 
                           TIE HIM UP ..
    Go up to your horse and rub him under the eye and on the forehead.  Keep
talking to
him all the while, pat his neck and body with both hands, he should be used to
this,  as
you have done it before. Get your saddle blanket in your right hand, and while
holding the
horses head around towards you, put the saddle blanket on his back.  You should
be able
to do so now.  Do it several times until he shows that he is used to it.                   
   
  Now to tie him up .  He will be a little bit sore behind the ears from the halter
work you
gave him.  Get a corn sack half full of dirt and tie the neck of it.            
 Now tie the halter shank end to the neck of your sandbag securely. Be sure it
can`t come
off.  Place it in the middle of the round yard.  He is then ground hitched to it. 
You can
then go for morning tea, leaving him to learn about being tied up.  Repeat this
session, so
he will form the habit of staying where you drop the reins.  And he will not
wander off
even in the open.                  
In the process he may drag the bag about a bit, and pull back some times.  But he
won`t
like the weight so he will stand eventually. Later on this should be done in the big
yard to
reinforce his memory of this tieing up method.
 Now that he will tie up, test him on the yard fence. Use the halter again, ( you
break less
bridles this way. )  Make sure when tieing your halter to the fence, use about 3
feet
between fence and halter. Tie it the fence  at least 5 feet above ground level, with
his
head in a comfortable position.  This is probably the safest way to tie him up.  If
he pulls
back and he is tied with too long a lead, he may break his neck.   Don`t tie him
low as it
may help to break his neck. Also he can step over the lead and probably throw
himself.
Then as he struggles to get up, he will bash his head against the post or yard.  So
watch
how you tie up any horse ! To avoid breaking reins, old time drovers punched a
hole in
each rein end and joined them with a light leather bootlace, this would break first
when a
horse pulled back and it often saved bridle reins.  You have avoided hurting him,
with a
bit of care.  So let him go with his mates until the next day.



                    THIRD DAY MOUTH HIM ..
    On the third day get him back into the round yard with your saddle horse.  It
should be
possible with them both standing together in the yard, to put the halter on him.
 Put your breaking in bridle on him.  Tie the reins around his neck and see that
the bridle
fits comfortably, in his mouth with no creases in the corners.  In 15 or 20 minutes
he
should be used to the bit in his mouth, if he is left loose in the yard to try it, so he
can
work his tongue around it.  Most people these days don`t have proper breaking in
gear, 
so put your saddle cloth on him, and an old saddle.  Girth him up to keep the
saddle on.
 Tie each rein back to the girth or surcingle straps, evenly
 with his head in it`s normal position, when standing with the reins a little bit
slack. Leave
him in the big yard with your saddle horse, for nearly an hour,  or until you think
he has
become used to the bridle bit in his mouth.  After this treatment, shorten the reins
2 to 3
inches per side evenly.
      But not too tight a grip on his mouth, just so he can really
 feel the bit and reins working,  as he turns his head to either side. Let him go
within an
hour.
          
          DRIVE HIM IN REINS ..
    On the fourth day put on your halter and bridle, plus the cloth and old saddle.
It must
now have stirrup irons attached,  when he is saddled.  Tie the stirrup irons
together under
his chest, with a strap. Your driving reins are run from his bridle bit, back
through the
stirrup iron on each side, these reins or ropes must be long enough to have you 
out of
reach behind him if he kicks. Drive him in the round yard, do not be rough on his
mouth,
be gentle.  A lighter hand makes a better mouth.  Do not see saw the reins.  Make
a
determined effort to turn right or left and make him do it. I can`t put enough
emphasis on
this driving with the reins.  With perseverance, he should distinctly turn right or
left, and
will stop when you decide to. To get him to move forward it maybe necessary, to
give
him a bit of a flap, with a downward stroke of the driving reins on his rump or
sides.
 Or a tap with the end of the reins, these driving reins should be split and 2
separate reins
used, not tied together,  to avoid being caught by your leg and possibly dragged.
 Don`t be too hard on his mouth as it will be chafed and very tender now. It is a
good
practice to put vaseline in the corners of his sore mouth, it seems to help.    
After a suitable time if he is responding to turns and stops.  If you can now
control his
movements by his mouth, you can very likely ride him, soon.







                               CHAPTER FIVE
                                RIDE HIM ..  
    Back in the round yard with him, put halter bridle and saddle on our horse. 
An
offsider would be handy at this point to assist.
 Put the reins over the new horses neck, with the offsider holding the horse, by
holding
the halter firmly.  Rein the horse up not too tightly, put your riding boot, right
into the
stirrup iron.  Place your knee against his shoulder, don`t go up and down in the
stirrup, as
it will only frighten this horse away from you.
   Step aboard with your hand on the monkey strap, ( found on Australian stock
saddles ) 
keep your body low down, and make a clean movement on to his back. let him
stand for a
few seconds to get used to your weight on his back.  Now let the offsider lead you
around
the yard several times, until he is moving freely. Get your offsider to bring in the
breaking
in horse, he mounts it and leads your horse by the halter, with a firm grip on the
 lead rope he can control your horse a bit. And so you are led out into the big yard. 
Go
around together a few times, then wrap the lead around this new horses' neck.
Disconnected he should travel with the other horse now, around the big yard.   So
now
you have ridden him, hurrah, in the yard.         

               RIDE AWAY ..
    Next day mount him in the same manner in the round yard, go out into the big
yard
together  with your assistant mounted also. We are now going for a short ride
together, for
about 1 mile.
  Make sure the offsider has a good hold on the halter lead, when you go through
the gate
into the open.
 This is a danger point, he may try to run away, but you and your offsider can
stop him
mate. After half an hour or so, wrap the halter lead around his neck, he should be
moving
freely now. Don`t over do it, he still can go sour, one to two miles should be
enough
before returning to the yard.  
 A young horse should be ridden every day.  He may become slightly harder in the
mouth,
on one side more than the other.   You then would need to concentrate on this
hard side,
more than the good turning side.
                                                       
     
               HORSE EDUCATION ..            
    Please be patient and get him gaited with distinct walking, not jogging. And a
distinct
trot, leading up to a steady canter.  It will take several months of steady riding,
and he
may still be a green horse for 12 months or more.
  But you should make every movement of him distinct and deliberate, to give him
no
doubt of what you require of him.  So much so, that it is noticeable to other
people.  And
stands out how responsive he has become. When cantering in a circle the inside
front leg,
should lead the other front one in movement.  When you canter through a figure
eight
circuit, he should change lead legs, to the inside of the turn.  As direction changes
he will
need to change back to the other front leg, in a reverse movement.  The best way
to do it
at first, is to go clockwise with the offside leg leading.   Then after a time change
over to
the anti clockwise movement.   With the inside leg leading again now the nearside
front
leg.  After you have completed these movements, do the figure eight.  Make sure
when
you do it that the inside leg leads after every turn change.
The legs must change over during the figure eight circuit moves.  It should be
practiced at
a steady canter,  after he has been schooled into this situation, for example. In a
race,
camp drafting, or hacking, and in every equestrian event.                                 
  It is vital to have your horse do it at the right time. It only comes with practice
after a
few months.  And if the horse is not too excitable.
               
                GOOD TURNER ..     
    A good way to teach a horse to turn and to use his feet, is to ride him up and
down a
fence. Try turning him into the fence, and going back the other way, at a trot and
changing feet in the right manner.  When this can be done cantering or galloping
you have
yourself a damn good horse mate. 
          
               CATCH THEM EARLY ..
    All horses are individuals and should be treated as such, it is what I call
getting into
their brain. On stud properties all foals should be caught every day and handled
from
birth. Eventually taught to tie up, pick up their feet often as possible, and try to
get their
complete trust of you. Should they become injured, it is easier to care for them.
 ( Cast your mind back to the teamster, who had no trouble at all.   After handling
his
foals, from birth to the harnessed stage of their lives.  He could manage by
himself, in the
early days of Australia.  A man on horse back, helped to emphasize the gulf,
between the
employer and the employees, working on distant bush properties, so far away from
his
employer.)     
                                                       
    Always pick up his four feet at least once every day right from the beginning. It
makes
it easier for the farrier when he does the shoeing of your horse. 

                    CRUPPER ?..
    In the old days most horses were broken in with a crupper on the horse.  Fitted
under
his tail and attached to a ring at the back of the saddle.  When adjusting it to
your saddle,
do up the buckle, after putting your hand under it to give a four inch gap. This
will do
just fine. After 2 or 3 rides with a crupper installed, he may start to kick up with
his back
legs.  This is a sure sign that the crupper is chafing his tail.  If it's very sore,
remove the
crupper and carry on with out it.

                    CHAPTER SIX    
        A CRUSH IS HANDY FOR HORSE HANDLING  ..        
     YET ANOTHER PROVEN METHOD FOR THE HORSE BREAKER..
    The ideal situation for me, is to put the young horse in a crush.  Let him go to
the end
of the crush, and put 2 rails across behind him through the crush. One rail about
the
height of his tail and the other one halfway down to his hock.  Walk very quietly
up to his
head, he may struggle a bit but he will settle down if you talk quietly.  Let him
smell your
hand and rub him on the nose, and rub him beneath the eye, finally a rub all over
in a
patting motion.  Use both of your hands at the same time, this should be kept up
until you
have become very friendly with the horse.  Make sure you have done it right,
touch him
everywhere. While patting him hold a halter up to the front of his head, very
slowly.  By
now you should be able to put the halter on the horse without any problem.
  If you let the horse go forward through the gate in the crush, into another yard,
tie your
catching rope onto the end of your halter lead rope.   Now 2 strong young men,
should be
able to stop the young horse from bolting around the yard.  Hold it until it settles
down
and realizes it is caught.
 Rub him under the eye possibly all over, you have been there all ready.  I have
picked up
their feet at this stage, talking and patting as before.
                         
               TAUGHT TO LEAD ..
    Two men pulling on the halter should be able to teach this horse to lead, with
the
halter inside at least half an hour.  Older horses may be more difficult than a 2
year old. 
The younger they are the quicker they learn, like children.  This applies to foals
and
yearlings, up to 2 years old.  It can be done with a horse that is older, if they have
a
placid nature.   This style is called handling the horse, catching it every day in the
crush,
and then out of the crush.
                                                       

                 PICK UP HIS FEET ..
    Pick up its feet as often as you can.  If he is too fractious to let you, put a collar
rope
on him.  He may come down on his knees or fall on his side, but if you are careful
no
harm will come to the horse.
  You may need your saddle horse in the yard with you, to get the collar rope on
and pick
up the hind leg.  Now dismount and handle the horse on foot as I have stated
earlier.  To
teach him to tie up go back to the bag of dirt method.  Approach the young horse
as often
as you can while he is tied to the bag of dirt. He will become used to being caught
out in
the big yard.   A horse is only as good as the man on his back.
    If your usual horse is inclined to play up and pig root, when you get on him, or
buck a
little bit, jerk his head up and rouse on him. These horses generally drop their
head to take
control from you .  A horse lead at the trot or canter, just after being saddled, led
for 10
minutes quickly,  will get his pigrooting out  of his system without you being on
his/her
back.  This is an old Drover's  way to get the high spirits out of the way, to avoid
being
dumped by a horse then fed on chaff & oats for strength .  These horses were
ridden 7
days a week all day and needed  2 litres of oats per day. 


          
                         CHAPTER SEVEN            
                             BRUMBY RUNNERS ..
 The man from snowy river was a myth, "Single handed and alone he brought
them back". 
He must have been running in the saddle horses, they certainly weren`t brumbies.
          
                    BRUMBY RUNNING ..
    I`ve yarded a few in my time in the 1930's.  Starting out in the morning about
daylight
searching for brumby horse tracks.  Four horsemen we were all together, and
these riders
they have got to be good at their job.   At first sight of us these brumbies will run
away.
These horses at their fastest pace, on account of travelling all the time,  become
3/4 pace
horses and hardened to it.  Sound winded sure footed and know their habitat. 
You are
better mounted on thoroughbreds, lightly shod and well fed, and worked in till
conditioned. The faster these horses are the better mounts. To be sure footed is a
must.  It
was my job to always go to the lead of the brumbies, another 2 men, one each on
the
right and left wings of the brumby mob.  And one to bring up the rear.  Old horses
and
foals may drop out, let them go.  The man in the lead has a woeful job, as do the
men on
the wings.  The chap on the tail or rear, also needs to be game and good, 
It was my job  to try and steady the lead, by shouting and crisscrossing in front of
the
mob.  You travel in this manner, to steady them down.   Eventually you may even
steady
them back to a trot.
  You will notice the sweat starting to dry on them.  It is an indication that they
are
slowing down. They should be driven and turned about in this manner, until they
become
reasonably managed.  Finally after all day at this practice, you may be able to
drive them
to a yard you built 20 miles away.

                   
          ONE MAN , NO CHANCE ..
    As for one man on horse back, he hasn`t a chance of doing what 4 top horsemen
have
done and completed.   
 As soon as they get hot and confused, the brumbies will split and  break away in
ones or
twos or little groups, they have to be boxed in by the four riders to stop this
happening. 
I`d defy any one man on horse back, to act out the part of the man from Snowy
River, 
with real brumbies and no fences to help him.
 I will include a little poem of a Brumby horse we caught in the old days.
However, he
had one hip down and was not saleable.  A brumby stallion at seven years of age,
that
was to become a legend in his lifetime, in the brumby running department. These
brumby
stallions we rode with a bit of age on them, knew more about handling horses
than we
did, hence ............        Hippy the Mugan crack .
          


               HIPPY ..  
          Hippy the mugan crack 
          The heart of a Lion , 
          The eye of a Fawn ,
          Was Hippy the mugan crack ,
          He can travel through from the streak of dawn ,
          With 12 stone perched on his back .                                             
          When Jack Day is riding ,
          And Hippy is striding  ,
          Through holes where the dead Oaks fall ,
          To stay on the job ,
                        And handle the mob ,
          Doesn`t worry old Hippy at all .
          When brumbies are stringing ,
          And stock whips are ringing ,
          In mad effort to break away ,
          The leaders are clinging ,
          Behind the miles flinging ,
          In front is the game old bay .
          Out in the scrub where the brumbies wheel, 
                       It gives your heart a pain ,
          When he stretches out to hold the lead ,
          The tug of old hippys rein .      
          (by an 1890 Mungindi Brumby Runner)      Poet :-  Alex Wilkie.                 
    

          MORE MYTHS REGARDING HARNESSED HORSES  ..
    The myth of the movie maker who knows nothing about horses in harness. 
When I see
horses cantering in a sulky, cart, or jinker.  Or any horse drawn carriage like a
coach,
Cobb and co style, four in tandem or six in tandem.  These horses are
 always cantering in the harness, sometimes for days and days  of a journey. They
always
bloody well canter with their collars on.
                                                       
     DON'T CANTER HIM IN HARNESS MATE ..                    

    After a horse has done one day in harness at the canter, the top of his neck
would be
chewed out, by the collar and both shoulders worn away to bare red flesh.  It
should not
be done in the movies or allowed to be done anywhere.  All those drivers should be
sacked, for allowing it to happen and the movie maker prosecuted for cruelty to
dumb
animals.  They should travel in harness at a walk or jog to a brisk trot, allowing
all the
horses yoked up to travel at a comfortable pace.

    Only the experienced eye, will know when these horses have been hardened to
the job,
with consistent work.  A good even team, should be able to stretch out and trot
and never
be hurried along.  No horse in harness should have to travel more than 25 miles
to 30
miles a day, which is the limit. Yoke a new team up if you must go on, it never
happens
in the movies, they are more like charioteers over a short distance.  If pulling from
a chest
band this seesaw action, when cantering in harness is just the same, and just as
bad. 
Damn all men of this calibre, who mistreat the harnessed horse. 
          
               PART TWO
                                  CHAPTER  ONE. 
                             HORSE GENTLING, THE WAY IT WAS
                 THE DYING ART OF BUSH LOGIC ..
    Old time carriers with their supply wagons or their wool wagons would take
supplies
into the inland. They would return loaded with wool to the nearest railway line or
wool
scour, and wool selling places in the capital cities.
    The most ideal setup for a horse team  operator, was a good big solid wagon,
and
about ,24 good big boned draft horses mostly mares and a stallion .  The pulling
collars
had to be fitted to each individual horse .  These collars range in size from 14
inches
upwards.  The two shafters had to be pretty quiet to be backed into the shafts.  
The next
two horses were called the pin horses  and they carried heavy harness, as they,
with the
shafters, were used to turn the wagon right or left .   The harness on the pin
horses was
very heavy duty, not only to pull with, but also to take the strain of the horses,
pulling in
the body of the team effort. They were yoked in pairs of two right up to the
leaders.  The
near side leader was picked for his intelligence and was relied on, by the carrier
more than
most other horses in the team .
The off side leader was equally important with the same qualities . When the
teamster
spoke to his leaders and pin horses to turn left, he would say.  " GE. GE. GE.".
    When turning right he said, "GE BACK. GE BACK. GE BACK." To get them
moving
forward into the harness and down the road, it was, "GET UP. GET UP. GET
UP." 
    To stop the wagon, he said "WHORP . WHORP . WHORP . OR WOE."

                         BULLOCKYS..
     Bullock drivers also  spoke to their bullock teams. When bringing them to the
left he
said " WHA WHE ".   If they were to turn right, it was "HOOT OVER. HOOT
OVER."
Every individual animal had a name and he knew it.   If he was slacking and not
pulling
his share of the load or weight, sometimes a dig in the ribs was enough to get 
him up in
the chains .
     HAVING FOALS WHILE TRAVELLING..                             
     The mares were not worked to the  point of foaling, the teamster knew when,
or about
the day she would foal.  He kept service information in his notebook to know when
foals
might  come. The mare was given a few days off to have it travelling with the
spare
horses. 
These spare horses were brought along by a cattle dog, or blue heeler, whose job
was to
bring any wanderers back to the travelling mob.  After being told his job for a
time, the
dog did it without instructions keeping the horses in close to the rear of the
wagon.  When
a horse wouldn`t pull his weight or wasn`t a good worker, these horses were called
Joeys
and they were usually sold to a farmer, where they might pull a one horse plough
and had
to pull their weight, 1 horse power.  
    The teamster would not breed from this type of horse to avoid producing
bludgers.






                                  CHAPTER TWO
                         FOALS..
     When the foals were born they were brought on camp, and the teamster or
carrier
caught that foal this same day.
 He caught it by placing his left arm under its neck, and the right arm around the
hind
quarters.  He would rub it down and pat  it and talk to it, this was done every day
and so
they grew up with no fear of man. These foals were even taught to lead and had
their feet
picked up often, to make them easier to handle,  shoe, or doctor.  This handling
went on
till they reached 2 years of age.  At two years old, after the team was yoked up to 
the
wagon in two strings of single horses, the young horse was placed in between the
2 strings
of horses, which were brought together leaving the young horse in the middle.  A
trace 
chain  was connected across the string in front of him, and another chain was
connected
across behind him.  leaving him in a crush where he could be harnessed up,
taking the
place of a horse at his side, this horses' chains being transferred to the new horse.  
  Then
the horse he replaced was led out of the body of the team, leaving him to learn the
job
standing yoked up .      
                                                       
 Of course you understand, that these young horses, right from the  start at birth,
were
caught almost every day whenever possible.   Not much horse busting in this
method.

        


                     BREEDING ..
          
    Most teamster, tried to eventually breed horses of the same colour a favoured
mixture,
I`ve seen some teams with brown bally  horses and mares, that looked exactly
alike, all 24
of them yoked plus spares.  Some teamsters were perfectionists, and went for
winkers with
brass fittings all exactly the same, brass  covered steel ames with little sleigh bells
attached to the ames on the high top. The Teamsters polished the brass in their
spare time,
in motion they were a sight to behold, never to be seen again in the lonely inland.  
Sometimes in a drought the carrier would have to bring a spare wagon to carry
his own
supplies, plus feed and water for the team on the long dry stretches outback.  He
was the
master of his environment. He fed his horses on whole corn and chaff from a
canvass
trough, made to fit both shafts of the wagon, where some of the horses were fed.  
He also
carried with him hessian home made troughing, and the horses could be watered
from a
100 gallon  tank on the ground, filled from the main supply wagon. If good grass
and
water were available he never fed at all. He kept his  saddle horse on a tether
chain, it
always had a swivel link in the chain to avoid chain tangles.   The horse wore a
tiny bell
on his neck, and the teamster could  tell what each horse was doing and where he
was by
the individual sound tone .

               MATES..
    All horses seem to mate up to form their own groups, so it was necessary to
have a
bell on each separate group.  Some of the bells usually condamine type, were up to
7
pounds weight and could be heard  about 10 miles away.  On a cold winter
morning, you
could tell by the sound of the bell what the bell ringer was doing, you read the
sound and
knew whether the horse was feeding,  drinking, walking or trotting 
away. Horses that are over worked and used up, won`t settle down, not even on
good
grass and water.      They are like ourselves, if they have a long hard day their
nerves
become jangled, and they will try to get as far as possible away from their work
place
during the night.  I think, you could call it running away from slavery .
          
        HUMAN ANIMALS..
    It`s a sad thing when you see horses that have been overworked, their
shoulders raw
from the collar, and with whip marks all over.
  These rough type of men who drove their horses to the limits of their endurance,
the bad
ones, the mongrels I speak about now.   Some of these human animals would cut
saplings
about six feet long and would tie a chain on the end of it. 
 This then was used to bash the horse into place, in his collar in the team.     To
my way
of thinking they had no place in the carrying business, or delving boredrains and
the
making of earth tanks or dams for water supplies.  They were obnoxious and I
would
never consider employing this type of sadist. 
  The chain whips were called jinglers, thank god those beasts of burden have
been
released from slavery.  Something should have been written about the misuse of
Donkeys,
Camels, Bullocks , and Horses, by some of our brutal ancestors and of their
shameful
practices.
                                     

                     


              CHAPTER THREE
                                   HORSE SENSE..
    A  good bush rule all riders should abide by, is never sweat a horse after 4
o'clock in
the evening, particularly, in winter he will be cold all night.  If very hot and let go
wet, a
horse will shiver! all night, very hard on the animals.  After a days work in the
saddle,
make absolutely sure you never gallop a horse home after he has finished his
work.  A
good   brisk walk or trot is the best method.
    If you gallop your horse home when your work is finished, he will become
fractious
and very excitable.  The habit will die with him. Remember a set of shoes and a
good
warm rug for the winter, are as good as an extra feed to the animal.  In my
opinion, all
working horses should be shod and rugged in the winter months. Horses are very
possessive in their habitat, and will protect it from other horses. It is in their
nature to do
so. They will charge outsiders, biting, striking, and kicking, and sometimes
putting the
horse over a fence, causing injury to the intruder.  It`s not a good idea to allow a
mare to
foal in a paddock with her mates, some horses will object to the foal very strongly. 
On
the other hand, some mares will take control of the foal, and will not allow it near
its
mother.             I've seen geldings do this also. In some respects, they  are like
ourselves, they don`t accept strangers readily.  Horses have good memories. Even
though
parted for years, they will accept old mates back into the mob readily. The
offspring from
a mare, although parted  for years, will readily recognise and accept one another
instantly. 
If a horse is lost by an owner, or even a few horses together, 99 times out of a
hundred
they will travel in the direction of their habitat.  I have seen horses
travel hundreds of miles, and sometimes after months reach their natural home or
run.  
      
      BAD HABITS..

    Remember bad habits can develop quickly. If he gets a win over you he will
remember
and will try it again.
And good habits occur through repetition and handling by the owner, good habits
should
be rewarded and encouraged, bad habits discouraged  with some sensible
punishment. The
bad ones should be prevented by firm action and discipline.  

           AS AN OLD BUSH SAYING GOES..   
    If you are lost in the bush on horseback, give the horse his head and he`ll take
you
home. He is a better bushman than you are, this is quite a natural thing for the
horse to
do.  On approaching a horse anywhere even the quietest animal, make sure it is
awake by
talking to it. It may be asleep standing up, with its eyes open.  I have been 
kicked, and
hurt twice, by two of the quietest horses I have ever owned.  It was all my own
fault,
even though I spoke to these two on approach they didn't hear me.  They may
have had
impaired hearing?
     
               SWIM A HORSE?..
    Not all horses are good swimmers. 
No horse will carry an adult person in the saddle in deep water.  When the horse
starts to
swim grab the mane, hobbles strapped on his neck or the pommel  of the saddle
and swim
alongside it. If this fails slide back and  grab the tail, the horse can`t kick you
while
swimming  A non swimmer is likely to miss the tail and drown.  

 If you are a non swimmer make no attempt to cross deep water on horseback.    
Throughout my lifetime all the non swimmers I've known, ended up dead in the
water
when crossing deep water holes.
          
               LOOK AFTER HIM MATE.. 

    If riding an unshod horse avoid stony roads, ridges, and bitumen, pick a soft as
possible pathway for the horses benefit.
 Horses bred on blacksoil plains will grow up with big flat feet like dinner plates. 
These
type of horses should be shod all of the time, they go sore footed and develop corns
or
nodules on the bottom of their hooves.  Splits and cracks in the hoof  occur, and
they had
to have their hooves cleaned out regularly.

               BREEDING GROUNDS..
    The best possible place to breed horses with good hard feet and sure footedness,
is a
place with plenty of sweet grass on the feeding grounds, where the horses have to
travel
across a stony or rocky ridge to their watering place.  This will develop well 
shaped hooves and sure footedness in the horse, this is hardly ever considered by
anyone.
     Of course horses like other animals need shade trees to get under in the heat
of the
day. They also like a patch of scrub to get into in winter to keep warm,  called
natural
shelter . 

                                     
                 
                       CHAPTER FOUR
                                               MUSTERING STOCK  ..

    When mustering horses or cattle, at the first opportunity, an accomplished
stockman
should go straight to the lead and block them up immediately.   If they are
allowed to run
free for a few miles they become hot and unmanageable.  This stockman should
remain in
the lead at all times.  It is called steadying the lead. Remember, the mob will
follow your
saddle horse to the yard.  Inexperienced riders should avoid this issue like the
plague, on
account of the dangers involved.  Of course there will be other riders on the wing,
and the
rear if you have them.


               BUSH LOGIC ON RIDING HORSES ..
    An experienced rider is one, who has ridden 7 different horses 7 days a week
for 7
years, with intelligence guts and gumption in that period.  Then they may become
an
accomplished horseman and know the reason why. If you have worked on station
properties and have ridden good and bad horses, some of them very dangerous to
ride,
battling bad horses just to go to work, you will understand a west Queensland
stockman`s
point of view.

               



               DO YOU RIDE OR CLING..              
    A heavy rider can learn to ride in motion, picking up the stride of the horse and
moving with it in the saddle.  This rock and roll action of the horse and man 
coordinated
together, where man and beast become as one, is called easy style, or balanced
riding.  It
has been recognised by bushmen that a balanced rider on a bucking horse, will
stay on
longer than the death grip rider type.  The grip rider holds on by brute strength,
and grabs
the monkey or horn of the saddle in a rough spot or if his horse crowhops or shies
in
fright.  The neon sign of a poor horseman.
 It is a well known fact of life that all horses respond better to a light hand on the
bridle
rein, they don`t like the jerkers.
 Reefing, or strong handed tactics, only hurts his mouth.
 Light hands should be practiced from the very start, while the horse is being
broken in, it
seems the civilised thing to do.                  Remember, they are being gentled, not
broken or busted, which they will object to.  Rough treatment while breaking him
in and
mouthing him, will put fear into him plus resentment.  He becomes hard mouthed
and
unmanageable to ride.  When breaking him in you really want him to trust you,
and not to
fear man and his touch.  You gain his confidence by being firm but gentle. 

 BUSH LOGIC INVOLVED   GAINED AFTER A LIFETIME IN THE BUSINESS
..
    Get to know your own horses hoof tracks, study them well. 
To know them sure enough, you look at his hooves and study them too. 
Eventually every
body should know the hoof mark on the ground of their own horse, and rubber
stamp it
into their memory.
 None are the same and all are definitely different, they are turned at different
angles. 
Be it cracks in the hooves, long toes, on individual feet, some their hooves turned
out, or
only one hoof turned out.  The frog in the foot is different like a fingerprint,
always. 
Some are pigeon toed with their front feet turned in, scooping the dirt outward on
both
sides. 
  Others with them turned out, called a paddler, I would reject that horse.  Some
walk on
their heels more than their toes and vice versa.   Other horses using their hind
legs, step
over the front track up to 20 inches, a rough horse to ride and some  right back
down to
one inch over the front track.       Other horses hind leg feet can step into the
front tracks,
or on top of the front track, they travel well.   Horse`s steps can vary from 1 inch
behind
the front foot, to a measure of 12 inches behind the front foot, in the extreme only. 
Reject him also not a good traveller to ride.

          LOOK FOR..                                   
    Particularly, look for a horse that does over step his front foot slightly, they are
good
walkers and a smooth horse to ride.   Any horse that walks with his front feet and
jogs
with his hind feet, his hips are lower and the hindquarters smaller.
 They are unusual and a good horse to ride, and a smart mover particularly on a
long ride,
they get over the ground quickly but are not a show hack.  A horse with a low
wither and
a high rump is not for me to ride, but could travel well in harness.
     
          WHITE FEET ??.
    Hence the old adage.  1 white foot buy him, two white feet try him, three white
feet
look around him, four white feet let him go to hell.  Some white footed horses have
rotten
feet.  Some white legged horses have black feet.
                                                     CHAPTER FIVE
                                   THE PERFECT HORSE........
    A good horse should stand up well with a wide forehead, normal or small ears
and a
big soft protruding eye.  He has an obvious jawline and good big nostrils, the neck
should
be a straight line from his ears to the top of the withers, and in proportion with
the rest of
his body.  He should have a good sloping shoulder in proportion with his neck and
a
clearance from the top of his wither to his armpit. So when saddled the girth and
surcingle
will be behind the armpit, and  will not girth gall him.  He should be deep and
wide from
the wither to the girth, plenty of breathing space with a good chest and chest
muscle
indicating stamina.
A good big rib cage indicates good breathing capacity a basic necessity in a
thorough bred
horse.  His back line should be in equal proportion, not swampy backed or drop
necked in
front of the wither.  From the wither to the rump will be about the same height,
and
allowing for the contours in between.   Long backs  are out, he should be wide
between
both hip bones and  have a long extended rump, that is wide and quite large in
comparison with the body of the horse.  A rounded rump allowing the hinges of his
hip
bones to be slightly dropped, where they hinge to the rump.  These features
indicate
speed, his hind legs should  conform with his flanks allowing him to stride out
with good
muscle.                         
 To stand up correctly he should be wide between the hocks, to stand up nice and
square,
and not cow hocked with them almost rubbing together, or turned outwardly or
inwardly. 
They should be square to look at, this allows a better turning performance and is
for pace
and stamina in the animal.  He should have good upright fetlocks and not
standing back
ones, these have a tendency to break down. 
 Look for big bones in both front and  back legs with long pasterns, or fetlocks, the
cannon bones should be good and strong.  Short pastern bones indicate cross
breeds that
carry hair behind the fetlocks.  Their hooves should be black if possible and should
stand
up well in proportion with the leg. 
                     MY CHOICE..
    My horse would have to be 15.2 hands or taller and conform with the above
description, if they have a good forelock, mane, and tail it is an advantage they
look
better.  A very thin skin is not an advantage, and a yellow bay is not for me.  My
choice
is a thoroughbred to ride, pack, or drive, and in every instance where the animal
is used,
more brains and intelligence are apparent.
    I am not forgetting your special horse the one you love the best, and I do
respect your
animal regardless of the breeding  or his habits or characteristics.
                                                      
        SELECTING A HORSE FOR YOUR REQUIREMENT..
    The foundation in everything is the most important in a good house etc, it
needs to be
firm and reliable, so too in the horse of your choice.  This comes back to the dam
or
mother. 
 The most evident thing is the mare if she has all the qualifications.  As I have
said
previously the dam should be good and quiet and have no fractious behaviour
problems,
and not be highly strung. She should be placid and unexcitable in any
circumstances, 
hardly ever considered by horse breeders. For instance a studbook mare and
registered
pony or thoroughbred, amounts to the same thing and should be a good performer. 
No matter what the breed is, the thing to do is to find a stallion, with a past
history of
high performance. A stallion from a background in lineage,  which have in their
past
records been highly regarded by the experts.  But remember all thoroughbreds are
produced in this manner, but only 5 percent ever win races.  Never the less they
can do
well in other spheres or avenues, Pony club , Police, Show ring, Cross country,
Olympic
events.  Particularly Hunting,  these horses are special and should be treated as
such,  I
would never consider the glue factory, the pet food, or the knackery for them.   For
they
have an average lifespan of 20 years, if they are cared for, in a decent manner .     
        
                    

                                     
                    CHAPTER SIX

   TRACKING A STRANGE HORSE IN THE BUSH, GETTING TO KNOW THE  
SIZE, SEX, AND COLOUR  OF THE ANIMAL BEFORE YOU FIND IT..

    Tracking is a tribal instinct for Aborigines, but it is essential for Stockmen.  
With a
big mob of horses travelling I could pick out and get to know 5 horses in one day,
by
their tracks.  Every new day, I would get to know another separate 5.   So I was
daily
memorising more, up to possibly a hundred in the finish.   If these horses split
into little
mobs at night,  I could tell you after a quick look at their tracks, which horses
were in
particular mob.  You can have them in your mind like the alphabet or 1 to 100.      
 
When tracking a strange horse in the bush, it will be small medium or large in the
foot,
that will indicate to me the size of the animal, the track will be in your mind size
1 size 2
size 3. All pony sizes 4, 5, and 6 will be 14.5 hands high.     Over size 6 for
instance
would be a big thoroughbred type. He could carry a 14 stone man anywhere.  
 Size 7 and 8 will be huge plenty of bone and quite a big horse probably 16 and
seventeen
hands tall.  When measuring, 1 hand is the width of your hand 4 inches, half a
hand is 2
inches, you measure from the top of the wither to the ground . 
  When following the stranger, the stallion or gelding, you will see where he has
stretched
out to pass urine.  He will step with his hind leg into his own urine, usually into
the
middle of it, in every instance.  This tells you the stranger is a male.  If it is a
stallion he
will drop his droppings on the top of other older droppings. Sometimes you will see
huge
heaps of dung, a gelding will not do this.   If it is a mare passing urine, when she
passes
urine it will run into her back hoof tracks.  So by  now we will know what kind of
horse
we are tracking.  Find out too the colour of the animal.  Each day that horse will
roll at
least once,  If it is springtime they will roll many times a day, rubbing the dead
hair out
of their skin.  If you study carefully you will know the colour, by the hairs left on
the
ground.  Free ranging horses during wet weather hardly drink at all, they have a
porous
skin and absorb water through their hide.  In winter time they only drink once a
day,
spring and autumn twice a day, very hot weather 3 to 5 times a day.  If they can
find
water they will roll in it and pollute it and stir up the mud.              
          HABITAT..
    A horse is an animal of habitat.   Particularly with a stallion of mature years,
running
with a mob of mares in wild country.  He will mark out his territorial boundaries,
he will
drive from the mob all young colts from 18 months upward, keep them out at all
times.     
      These young colts will form groups together and live in that manner.  Until
someday
when one is old enough, he will return to the mob time and time again.  The
young
stallion will become the king of the herd.  Some old stallions will fight till they are
killed
by young bucks.

               A LONER HORSE THAT LIVES BY HIMSELF ..
    He rejects all herd instincts, by living by himself continuously. He knows no
barriers
or common horse instincts he has a code of his own.  He does not know any
limitation of
his capabilities.      By living a lonely life he does  not recognize any of the horse
everyday activities.  He develops his own.    These horses are rare and after being
captured, on account of what he is he has no limitations, he will have a go at
anything
you put him at.  You may depend he`ll do his best in any circumstances. 
Therefore, it is
a fact that they are a rare and wonderful animal.  They only give of their best . 
The only
disadvantage, a loner may take some finding in his scrub retreat. A bell is the
solution. 
                                     
                               CHAPTER SEVEN
                         PRODUCING FOALS..
      Mares can be served after one year old, but better results are achieved after
two
years.  Mares, have bred foals up to the age 38 years or so.  Mares come into
season 
in the early spring and summer, up to 4 days at a period, repeating every 4 weeks
or so.
 Some stallions can serve up to 80 mares, in a season of 3 months plus, after 4
years of
age. If a stallion is  3 years and under, limit the services to 20 or less.
     If the mare doesn`t come into season, after 3 weeks past her being served, she
is
probably in foal, but not always true. Check 16 days after her heat period ends,
for her to
come into season again, this is more exact timing. Some mares though not
pregnant, will
not come into heat again in this season.

      

    PREGNANCY VARIATIONS HORSE.
    Forty eight and a half weeks, or about 340 days normally, sometimes, down to
307
days or up to 412 is possible.
 Normal birth takes place over a 15 minute period, and if it takes longer she may
need
help or the foal may die .
 The placenta usually comes out after some minutes, and up to 30 minutes later,
Mares
don`t usually retain the placenta.  Foals can be born in the placenta envelope, and
must be
brought out of it to survive, as he can`t breathe inside it.
 If in doubt when she has trouble  call a VET.                                  
                   
               SWELLS UP .. a  50 YEAR OLD REMEDY..
     If after a month of pregnancy she swells up abnormally and is very large
between the
4 legs, you can treat the condition with a drench of this mixture.
 4 grams of nux vomica fluid extract, 
 1 oz powdered nitre,
 2 grams of citrate of caffeine, 
 10 drops digitalis fluid extract,  HALF a pint of water.
Mixed and given daily till some improvement occurs, the swelling usually goes
after birth,
and can be caused by pressure on the veins in the groin area, and isn`t dangerous.
This is
not to be confused with a dropped belly, rupture of the pre pubic tendon .
DO SEE A VET !!!

    NEW FOAL CARE..
    You have a new foal if he doesn`t breathe, clear any mucous from his mouth
and nose. 
If he is too big to lift throw him from one side to the other using his legs to throw
him. 
 Splash him with cold water it may start him, or try shaking him and slapping
also.  Blow
into his mouth or nose to start him breathing, If he breathes now, fix his umbilical
cord.
 Tie a  knot around the umbilical cord 2 inches from the navel. Use some cord you
soaked
in antiseptic solution to tie it.
 Cut the cord on the placenta side separating it from the foal. Disinfect the site
thoroughly
to avoid complications. Place him in front of the mother and let her lick off the
wet
covering he will have . If she won`t do it dry him yourself.
 Foals born in yards, are possibly more in danger of getting diseases than paddock
born
foals, such as, Enteritis, White Scours,   and   Pneumonia.
     
     FOALING PLACE..
    The ideal foaling paddock is a small hilly paddock, at all times kept for this
purpose. 
His next trouble may be constipation if no manure is evident from him, try a
bougee in
his rectum or an enema, use soapy water.   Mix half a pint of glycerine to a gallon
of
water.  Clear the passage up his rectum with your fingers.   Use a luke warm
mixture, a 3
foot tube and a funnel, put the small tube just inside his rectum,
and start the mixture flowing through the funnel, gently push the tube in to the
rectum to
about 7 inches.  Check his bowel action after this and give him more enemas if
necessary
every few hours.

                    HUNGRY FOAL..
    If he looks tucked up, and her udder is full he may not be getting a drink, tie
her up
and watch him feed if he can. 
 If she still won't let him suck, pick up her front fetlock ,and show him to his meal
on the
teat, watch them until she accepts him.  After  he gets the first milk, called
colostrum, and
he digests it, he should produce black manure quite resinous
from his intestines. If no black manure is produced constipation may be here.
 New born animals who don`t get the colostrum in the milk, should be given castor
oil or
some mild laxative to get the bowels working properly .
 His mother may not get her milk for hours after birth, so give the foal a drink of
clean
water, with some glucose   half and half mixture, and keep him warm .
                                     
      




                



                     CHAPTER EIGHT

                   FINDING YOUR WAY IN THE BUSH..
    When travelling EAST walk into the sun, at noon, 12 o'clock, midday, the
shadows of
a tree will be in a complete circle around the butt of a tree.  From noon onward
the
shadow of the trees will lengthen to the east, travel that way even by watching
your own
shadow.     
  In the afternoon the sun will be shining on the middle of your back, until it sets
at
sunset.  If travelling north at sunrise the sun will be on your right shoulder, until
noon and
on your left  shoulder until sunset.  When travelling south the  sun at sunrise will
be on
your left shoulder, until noon and on your right shoulder until sunset.  If
travelling west at
sunrise the sun will be on your back until noon, it will be in your  face until
sunset. If it
is overcast don`t panic study the timber particularly our native trees, my
observations are
that the trees have a tendency to open their branches to the NORTH  and SOUTH
allowing the sun to shine through.  Trees will even twist their branches, around in
nature
to allow this to happen.
 It seems in their nature to do this over the length and breadth of Australia, if you
study
what I have said you may conclude like I did, that mature timber will grow in this
manner
to about 75 percent on average.  To check this out in heavily timbered country,
you will
find that grey green moss grows on the southern side of most trees, it may be only
a slight
shading of the above  but it will be there in most cases.

                         FIND WATER..
    Looking for water in the outback.  Where there are domesticated                  
stock and kangaroos, they create a pad or pathway to the nearest water.  More
than that, if
you study it well the pathways or pads come together to a point, which forms a
"V".  The
closer you get to that watering point  more of the v`s comes together, the "V"
arrow
points to water a natural thing to happen.


       A FEW MORE HINTS..
    A good hat and a solid pair of boots, matches or a cigarette lighter, and a knife,
a
survival knife would do nicely.  A water bottle over your shoulder.  Not forgetting
a few
large plastic bags to pull over a small very green tree, or a very leafy limb of a
tree, it
must hang down wrap the neck of the bag around the limb or tree and tie it on, at
sunset
water moisture will gather in the bottom of the bag, not much but some enough to
survive
on.    When lost don`t climb over a fence stay on your side of it, unless you can
obviously see water on the other side of it. Never cross a river unless, you can see
habitation on the other bank.   If I came to a river I would follow the stream
down.  You
will find human habitation on it, the same applies to boredrains
.  A small fishing line is always handy, most streams have edible mussels in the
shallow
edges if you feel around to find them, (good fish bait), crayfish in the boredrains
also. 
Sometimes small fish and mussels are found in boredrains.  Remember a road will
cross
that river or watercourse somewhere,  stay on the road at that  point, and keep a
good
smoky fire going day and night so you can be seen by the searchers.  Most gullies
running
downhill will eventually lead to water, don`t panic, most people do, keep a cool
head.  Do
not let yourself become irrational, keep your clothes on and keep something warm
for
sleeping at night.
     
         STRANDED DRIVERS..
    Never walk away from your car, stay with it.  In the inland you should carry at
least 4
gallons of water, extra fuel and oil plus several spare tyres, fan belts, and radiator
hoses. 
A good tool kit and a jack, wheel spanner, and a tyre pump, tyre levers, tubes,
patches and
tyre sleeves.  A small bog puller is a handy gadget, it can also be used to put
around a
tubeless tyre, to squeeze the tubeless tyre back on to the safety rim, so it can be
pumped
up again. I have used a car jack to remove a tyre from a wheel, by placing the jack
base
on the side of tyre, and under the bumper bar or chassis of a car.  Wind the jack
up 3 or 4
inches and sit on the mudguard or stand on the bumperbar, move up and down to
loosen
the tyre, it might take some time, but it will come off in the finish. Another way to
break
the bead of the tyre from the wheel, is to carry a short plank say 5x2 inches solid
hardwood, approximately 3 feet long, maybe an old step.
      Put the flat tyre and wheel in front of your car in line on the drivers side of
the car,
place the very edge of the plank on the side of tyre up close to the wheel rim but
not on
it, then drive the car up the plank to the top of it, and put on the car hand brake
or chock
it.  Then you will have the full weight of the car on the tyre with the plank in
between. 
Stand onthe bumper bar and rock  the car, the tyre beads should break and drop,
after a
while it breaks the seal. I have performed this operation with a guide post on the
side of
the road, so carry an axe.  Remember a small tarpaulin, a swag if any in the boot,
a billy
can, some tea and sugar, a few tins of corn beef, and hard tack biscuits, will take
up no
room in the vehicle. No doubt they will be appreciated if bogged or broken down
and just
might save your life.  A good idea to stay on the main drag or road, don`t ever go
down a
side track if you don`t know where its leading to, it maybe an old mining road
going
hundreds of kilometers and  going  nowhere. It may have recent wheel tracks on
it. 
Ignore this plenty have followed them  at their peril.
 



                     CHECK IN MATE ..
    When travelling in the outback leave your name at Hotels, and Police stations,
and say
where you intend to go. Get advice locally about roads, rivers, and directions.
   Every motor vehicle in the outback should have a C.B. radio or flying doctor
radio. Any
high frequency radio transmitter, is very handy if you are in trouble.
 As long as some one hears you. Many people have been rescued after calling on
their
C.B. radio for help, from any one listening.  Most C.B. radio people will help you,
by
calling their  local Policemen, who then contact the Police in the rescue area.
These Police
definitely, will organize a search for you.
  Some of these good C.B. people, will ring the Police in your area usually by
S.T.D.telephone, sometimes from thousands of miles away.
    C.B. radio, Ham radio, and Flying Doctor radios, can reach out to other users of
radios
right across Australia. 
 Who you get to answer you is the one listening on the band, or
frequency, that you use.  So check with the department of communications
for a list of the monitored frequencies eg, channel 9 on a 40 channel C.B. radio is
the
emergency channel,  where you call for help when you are in trouble mate. 

                         
               


                                                  
                            WHERE'S
                          MY  BLOODY               T S 7
                           TUCKER  MATE      
 
If you make a copy from this site 
send a dollar its alright
Don Johnson
3 sth stn rd booval 4304
Ipswich Queensland Australia