This account was prepared to help horses and to point out possible
problems with their health and well being. Hopefully
it will mean our friend the horse is better understood by the
ordinary horse owner. I am biased in the horses favour, but he
needs a spokesman. If he could talk you would get an earful
in his best interests. The old remedies are in there to show
you how he was cared for, forty years and more into the past
they are not intended or expected to compete with modern medicine .
The horse breaking methods are likely to produce a
horse that has little fear of man but adequate respect for
his rider. No doubt you have seen horses so brutalized that
they are a nervous wreck , shivering with fear when man comes near.
Properly treated in the training stage of their education
most young horses will respond , temper tantrums of the trainer
make a nervous horse, remain calm if possible.
Treat your young horse like a new girlfriend, you must try to be gentle
and to win her confidence love and respect.
There are some similarities if you think on it.
I would like to thank Don & Nell Johnson of
Dirranbandi, who supplied a lot of the information on the subject of
horses and horse history.
HORSE BREAKING A DIFFERENT METHOD
LEADING. APPROACH ON FOOT. SADDLE UP.
LEAD HIM ON HORSEBACK. LEAD HIM ON FOOT.
TIE HIM UP. MOUTH HIM. DRIVE HIM IN REINS.
RIDE HIM. EDUCATION. TURNING. CATCHING.
FINDING YOUR WAY IN THE BUSH.
PROUD FLESH. GALLS. & SITFAST.
CRIB BITING. TETANUS. TICKS. LAMENESS. STRINGHALT.
SPAVIN. OVER REACHING. SANDCRACKS.
FISTULA. ARTHRITIS. BIRDSVILLE DISEASE. AZOTURIA.
PARALYSIS. BROKEN BONES. SWAMP CANCER.
CHLOROFORMING. STITCHING WOUNDS. PNEUMONIA.
GIVING MEDICINES.
If you make a copy from this site
send me a dollar its alright
3 south stn rd Booval 4304
Ipswich Queensland Australia
HORSE BREAKING A VERY DIFFERENT METHOD..
Horse gentling is my preference, I do not believe in horse breaking or bronco
busting, the word should be gentling of coming to terms with your horse.
The bronco buster ropes a young horse, and snubs him to a post. The horse
down on the rope several times, and belts his head on the snubbing post, possibly
in his forehead or maybe breaking his neck. When he has no resistance left he is
and bridled, with a big jaw breaker type of mexican bit in his soft mouth. He is
by a rider, who spurs the poor bloody horse into submission. He is bashed and
until he makes the required moves for his cruel master. This treatment often
horse sour, with a hatred for man, and no wonder. I will say no more about these
HORSE BREAKERS .. THE STANDARD TYPE..
This fellow might throw his rope to catch the horse. Once looped he wraps the
around a fence post. The frightened horse races forward and slams into a fence,
his head in or gouging out an eye. Or it gets to the end of the rope and breaks its
quite easily, particularly in a square or oblong yard. Some use a roping pole in
yard to get the rope on his neck. This frightens the horse and it takes some time
down. It is then pulled to a snubbing post in the middle of the round yard, or a
the yard. Worse still it will be flopped with a bag on a stick, so called Bagging.
horse is choking and being bagged, it may, out of fear, bang its head on the fence.
struggling, it may smash teeth or break its neck. It can be wind broken at the
This is part of the usual method used in horse breaking tried and recommended
MY METHODS USE LESS FEAR OF MAN ..
I did know Leo Casey the legendary horse breaker, who is of the same opinion as
about horse breaking. He used to make a loop in a short rope and hang it in a
on the fence of the round yard, making a snare loop. When the horse was trotted
the yard he looped himself and took the short rope with him. All Leo would say
" Got ya mate ". In the round yard at the same time he would have his own quiet
horse. He then mounted his horse and picked up the end of the horse catching
he pulled the catching rope under his horse`s neck from the offside to the
Bringing it over the wither of his own horse, he tied it to the rope again with a
After tieing the two horses together, he would gradually bring the young horse to
walking or trotting his own horse along side the young one , as in nature around
When he got it in close to his saddle horse, he would put his hand out and let the
horse smell him. After a little while he would rub it under the eye,
casting no fear into the animal. Eventually he would rub it down all over.
Later a halter hanging on the yard would be taken and put on the young horse.
catching rope could then be taken off the young horse. The halter lead replaces
catching rope, in the above manner, under the neck of the horse being ridden and
place. Now Leo could pull on the halter with the rope around the chest of his
horse, to teach the young horse to stand. And by the motion of his right hand to
forward. Gently patting it along, he could teach it to turn right or left, and to
lead rope with his horse. You can tell by the nature of the horse how soon you can
dismount, and walk up to him and let him smell your hand. Talking to him as
forward, rub his nose and rub him under the eye, the kindest place you can touch
Do not rub him under the jaw or between the bottom jaws, near the mouth. There
nerve centre there which upsets him, and he won`t like it. He may try to strike
Strange horses meeting for the first time, can adopt a fighting stance. They
for the jaw first, if they miss, may grab the wither or back of the front leg.
I have used this horse gentling method
on many occasions, with great success.
LEADING AN UNBROKEN HORSE HOME ..
Sometimes, I`ve tied the halter rope to a good strong saddle horse, and tied their
together with a hitch and a bit of binding twine. Then in this manner, I have
young unbroken horses home, sometimes several miles distant, talking to them
handling them on the journey. I have done this on many occasions and have
young horse. But you must have confidence in your breaking in horse, to know
will hold the young horse and do the job you set him. Test him with the young
the yard, before you attempt to go away. You will know in a little while around
if he can do it. Any good stout saddle horse should be good enough, all finished
an hour. When you open the main gate of the stockyard be ready for the young
will try to escape, and will make an effort to leave you as you go out the gate.
firm hand on the reins of your horse, bring your saddle horse around to the
Turn left sharply, forcing the young one to come with you, until it realizes you still
Soon it will settle down, this treatment does work in practice as I have proved
Back to the horse gentling, back in the round yard you can now approach the
horse on foot. The experienced eye can tell if a horse is approachable on foot. Go
rope and let him smell you and rub him under the eye. Things to look for when
near to him. If he snorts or pulls back, lays his ears back, rolls his eyes or shakes
from side to side, he may be unapproachable on foot. He may strike kick or bite
this case get back on your horse and pick up the catching rope again, make a loop
his neck and tie a knot that won't slip. Perhaps a bowline knot so he won't choke.
the end of the rope back through the loop, leaving a trailing loop on the ground.
moving watch his nearside back leg. When he stands in the loop, pull up the rope
from your saddle horse. The back foot should be about a foot off the ground, tie a
and the young horse is now collar roped. It will need to be done quickly, to prevent
kicking and chafing of the back of the hind fetlock, this can burn the hair off
raw. Horses that are collar roped for the first time may throw themselves down, so
where he won`t hurt himself At this point go through the motions, let him smell
his forehead and under his eye. Keep him calm. You can now pat this horse all
he can`t hurt you, unless he falls on you. He cannot kick or strike you. A fierce
will indicate to you whether he will bite. If he is a vicious horse he will lay his
or roll his eyes, but I don`t think so now. It is possible to touch this horse
Even castrate it if you know how. You can certainly pull its tail to a decent level,
the hock . Pull the mane and get the burrs out of it to a suitable length. A good
to teach him to halter, approach the horse from the front, and take it off, and put
few times. As many as you can. When putting it on, always put the halter shank
his neck to hold him, whilst doing so. You should not work a young horse any
than 2 hours in any one day. Sometimes less than 2 hours, as he may go sour in
confinement and training. He may also fret if put in a stable after work. At this
would be better turned out in the horse paddock, with the rest of the horses and
his freedom again. He will come in fresh in the morning.
During the handling of a young horse you may find when they start to sweat,
may become stubborn and unmovable. This is an indication they are turning sour,
halter off and let him go. It`s time for a break, next morning back to the round
your breaking in horse. It may be possible while riding around the yard at a walk
steady trot, to get the halter shank around his neck. Now stop and put the halter
He should now be at a stage to get up along side of him, and to drop the catching
around his neck. Then put the halter on him, use the halter shank to hold him as
If he is very flighty and fractious I recommend the leg rope again, after pulling
hind leg again. Ease the saddle blanket on carefully and saddle and girth him up.
your time, talk to him, reassure him, while you do it. You can actually crawl all
horse, take your time patting with both hands everywhere. Talking to him as you
him thoroughly. Do not put your foot in the stirrup iron while he is collar roped
weight will likely pull the horse off balance, and he will fall to the nearside with
would be quite easy after you take the saddle off to quietly climb on his back.
hands up and down his legs, several times to the hooves and back. After 20
this treatment it should be safe to remove the collar rope, off the back leg.
You can then try approaching him in the normal manner. Rub him down
head and withers and possibly pick up his feet. Remember to hold his head
on the nearside, as you attempt to pick up a nearside leg by the fetlock. If his
firmly brought to the nearside he can not kick you. If he tries, pull on the halter
stop him. He has to turn right away from you to be able to kick you. You may
to do all the things you have done previously, when he was collar roped and had
tied up. If the horse is still not leading good enough on horseback, which is
at this stage, make a loop in your catching rope and throw it over his rump. While
your horse in the yard, lead the young one around the circle in the round yard. It
take a slight tug on the rump rope, to encourage the young horse to travel with
saddle horse. You could even take him out in the big yard now and do the same.
while you will discover you can discard the head rope behind his rump. So you
taught him to lead on horse back.
Now back in the round yard. Dismount and see if you can lead both horses
around the yard. It will need to be done quite a lot, until he gets used to doing it.
Remove your saddle horse from the yard, and you can probably lead him, by the
he is not leading and turning by then, change over to a long yard, 12 to 20 feet
twice as long. Now encourage the horse to go past you, between you and the fence.
time he passes you, on the end of the rope, down the fence line, pull him back
the centre of the yard. Then let him go the other way and do the same,
turn left and right as you require him to do. This way you are making the horse
of the hard work, and you are not just dragging a horse, to the left and the right
puts the strain on you all the time and you are just pulling on his head to lead
you do this for 20 minutes he will be breathing hard puffing a bit. So will you.
him towards you and keep pulling, even if he only takes a couple of steps. Keep
and reward him with a rub on the forehead and under the eye. In this manner he
learn to lead. If he is still stubborn and won`t move back into the round yard, put
head rope around his rump again. And use it to take him around several times.
him each time with a rub under the eye when he leads.
At this stage most people are impatient. If he won`t lead by this time there is
answer. Hold him, a halter lead length away, by the halter rope, and have a
on the ground. If he won`t move forward give him a flick behind the front
the whip, it will sting and make him move about and come towards you. As you
forward, use this process on stubborn horses until they lead properly. Any horse
to lead by this method will lead anywhere, up a ramp, anywhere you`d like to take
don`t believe in too much whip. But most old time horse breakers will tell you to
necessary. They couldn`t all be wrong. Still again it can be over done, so be sure
Go up to your horse and rub him under the eye and on the forehead. Keep
him all the while, pat his neck and body with both hands, he should be used to
you have done it before. Get your saddle blanket in your right hand, and while
horses head around towards you, put the saddle blanket on his back. You should
to do so now. Do it several times until he shows that he is used to it.
Now to tie him up . He will be a little bit sore behind the ears from the halter
gave him. Get a corn sack half full of dirt and tie the neck of it.
Now tie the halter shank end to the neck of your sandbag securely. Be sure it
off. Place it in the middle of the round yard. He is then ground hitched to it.
then go for morning tea, leaving him to learn about being tied up. Repeat this
he will form the habit of staying where you drop the reins. And he will not
In the process he may drag the bag about a bit, and pull back some times. But he
like the weight so he will stand eventually. Later on this should be done in the big
reinforce his memory of this tieing up method.
Now that he will tie up, test him on the yard fence. Use the halter again, ( you
bridles this way. ) Make sure when tieing your halter to the fence, use about 3
between fence and halter. Tie it the fence at least 5 feet above ground level, with
head in a comfortable position. This is probably the safest way to tie him up. If
back and he is tied with too long a lead, he may break his neck. Don`t tie him
may help to break his neck. Also he can step over the lead and probably throw
Then as he struggles to get up, he will bash his head against the post or yard. So
how you tie up any horse ! To avoid breaking reins, old time drovers punched a
each rein end and joined them with a light leather bootlace, this would break first
horse pulled back and it often saved bridle reins. You have avoided hurting him,
bit of care. So let him go with his mates until the next day.
On the third day get him back into the round yard with your saddle horse. It
possible with them both standing together in the yard, to put the halter on him.
Put your breaking in bridle on him. Tie the reins around his neck and see that
fits comfortably, in his mouth with no creases in the corners. In 15 or 20 minutes
should be used to the bit in his mouth, if he is left loose in the yard to try it, so he
work his tongue around it. Most people these days don`t have proper breaking in
so put your saddle cloth on him, and an old saddle. Girth him up to keep the
Tie each rein back to the girth or surcingle straps, evenly
with his head in it`s normal position, when standing with the reins a little bit
him in the big yard with your saddle horse, for nearly an hour, or until you think
become used to the bridle bit in his mouth. After this treatment, shorten the reins
But not too tight a grip on his mouth, just so he can really
feel the bit and reins working, as he turns his head to either side. Let him go
On the fourth day put on your halter and bridle, plus the cloth and old saddle.
now have stirrup irons attached, when he is saddled. Tie the stirrup irons
his chest, with a strap. Your driving reins are run from his bridle bit, back
stirrup iron on each side, these reins or ropes must be long enough to have you
reach behind him if he kicks. Drive him in the round yard, do not be rough on his
be gentle. A lighter hand makes a better mouth. Do not see saw the reins. Make
determined effort to turn right or left and make him do it. I can`t put enough
this driving with the reins. With perseverance, he should distinctly turn right or
will stop when you decide to. To get him to move forward it maybe necessary, to
him a bit of a flap, with a downward stroke of the driving reins on his rump or
Or a tap with the end of the reins, these driving reins should be split and 2
used, not tied together, to avoid being caught by your leg and possibly dragged.
Don`t be too hard on his mouth as it will be chafed and very tender now. It is a
practice to put vaseline in the corners of his sore mouth, it seems to help.
After a suitable time if he is responding to turns and stops. If you can now
movements by his mouth, you can very likely ride him, soon.
Back in the round yard with him, put halter bridle and saddle on our horse.
offsider would be handy at this point to assist.
Put the reins over the new horses neck, with the offsider holding the horse, by
the halter firmly. Rein the horse up not too tightly, put your riding boot, right
stirrup iron. Place your knee against his shoulder, don`t go up and down in the
it will only frighten this horse away from you.
Step aboard with your hand on the monkey strap, ( found on Australian stock
keep your body low down, and make a clean movement on to his back. let him
few seconds to get used to your weight on his back. Now let the offsider lead you
the yard several times, until he is moving freely. Get your offsider to bring in the
in horse, he mounts it and leads your horse by the halter, with a firm grip on the
lead rope he can control your horse a bit. And so you are led out into the big yard.
around together a few times, then wrap the lead around this new horses' neck.
Disconnected he should travel with the other horse now, around the big yard. So
you have ridden him, hurrah, in the yard.
Next day mount him in the same manner in the round yard, go out into the big
together with your assistant mounted also. We are now going for a short ride
Make sure the offsider has a good hold on the halter lead, when you go through
This is a danger point, he may try to run away, but you and your offsider can
mate. After half an hour or so, wrap the halter lead around his neck, he should be
freely now. Don`t over do it, he still can go sour, one to two miles should be
before returning to the yard.
A young horse should be ridden every day. He may become slightly harder in the
on one side more than the other. You then would need to concentrate on this
more than the good turning side.
Please be patient and get him gaited with distinct walking, not jogging. And a
trot, leading up to a steady canter. It will take several months of steady riding,
may still be a green horse for 12 months or more.
But you should make every movement of him distinct and deliberate, to give him
doubt of what you require of him. So much so, that it is noticeable to other
stands out how responsive he has become. When cantering in a circle the inside
should lead the other front one in movement. When you canter through a figure
circuit, he should change lead legs, to the inside of the turn. As direction changes
need to change back to the other front leg, in a reverse movement. The best way
at first, is to go clockwise with the offside leg leading. Then after a time change
the anti clockwise movement. With the inside leg leading again now the nearside
leg. After you have completed these movements, do the figure eight. Make sure
you do it that the inside leg leads after every turn change.
The legs must change over during the figure eight circuit moves. It should be
a steady canter, after he has been schooled into this situation, for example. In a
camp drafting, or hacking, and in every equestrian event.
It is vital to have your horse do it at the right time. It only comes with practice
few months. And if the horse is not too excitable.
A good way to teach a horse to turn and to use his feet, is to ride him up and
fence. Try turning him into the fence, and going back the other way, at a trot and
changing feet in the right manner. When this can be done cantering or galloping
yourself a damn good horse mate.
All horses are individuals and should be treated as such, it is what I call
their brain. On stud properties all foals should be caught every day and handled
birth. Eventually taught to tie up, pick up their feet often as possible, and try to
complete trust of you. Should they become injured, it is easier to care for them.
( Cast your mind back to the teamster, who had no trouble at all. After handling
foals, from birth to the harnessed stage of their lives. He could manage by
early days of Australia. A man on horse back, helped to emphasize the gulf,
employer and the employees, working on distant bush properties, so far away from
Always pick up his four feet at least once every day right from the beginning. It
it easier for the farrier when he does the shoeing of your horse.
In the old days most horses were broken in with a crupper on the horse. Fitted
his tail and attached to a ring at the back of the saddle. When adjusting it to
do up the buckle, after putting your hand under it to give a four inch gap. This
just fine. After 2 or 3 rides with a crupper installed, he may start to kick up with
legs. This is a sure sign that the crupper is chafing his tail. If it's very sore,
crupper and carry on with out it.
A CRUSH IS HANDY FOR HORSE HANDLING ..
YET ANOTHER PROVEN METHOD FOR THE HORSE BREAKER..
The ideal situation for me, is to put the young horse in a crush. Let him go to
of the crush, and put 2 rails across behind him through the crush. One rail about
height of his tail and the other one halfway down to his hock. Walk very quietly
head, he may struggle a bit but he will settle down if you talk quietly. Let him
hand and rub him on the nose, and rub him beneath the eye, finally a rub all over
patting motion. Use both of your hands at the same time, this should be kept up
have become very friendly with the horse. Make sure you have done it right,
everywhere. While patting him hold a halter up to the front of his head, very
now you should be able to put the halter on the horse without any problem.
If you let the horse go forward through the gate in the crush, into another yard,
catching rope onto the end of your halter lead rope. Now 2 strong young men,
able to stop the young horse from bolting around the yard. Hold it until it settles
and realizes it is caught.
Rub him under the eye possibly all over, you have been there all ready. I have
their feet at this stage, talking and patting as before.
Two men pulling on the halter should be able to teach this horse to lead, with
halter inside at least half an hour. Older horses may be more difficult than a 2
The younger they are the quicker they learn, like children. This applies to foals
yearlings, up to 2 years old. It can be done with a horse that is older, if they have
placid nature. This style is called handling the horse, catching it every day in the
and then out of the crush.
Pick up its feet as often as you can. If he is too fractious to let you, put a collar
on him. He may come down on his knees or fall on his side, but if you are careful
harm will come to the horse.
You may need your saddle horse in the yard with you, to get the collar rope on
up the hind leg. Now dismount and handle the horse on foot as I have stated
teach him to tie up go back to the bag of dirt method. Approach the young horse
as you can while he is tied to the bag of dirt. He will become used to being caught
the big yard. A horse is only as good as the man on his back.
If your usual horse is inclined to play up and pig root, when you get on him, or
little bit, jerk his head up and rouse on him. These horses generally drop their
control from you . A horse lead at the trot or canter, just after being saddled, led
minutes quickly, will get his pigrooting out of his system without you being on
back. This is an old Drover's way to get the high spirits out of the way, to avoid
dumped by a horse then fed on chaff & oats for strength . These horses were
days a week all day and needed 2 litres of oats per day.
The man from snowy river was a myth, "Single handed and alone he brought
He must have been running in the saddle horses, they certainly weren`t brumbies.
I`ve yarded a few in my time in the 1930's. Starting out in the morning about
searching for brumby horse tracks. Four horsemen we were all together, and
they have got to be good at their job. At first sight of us these brumbies will run
These horses at their fastest pace, on account of travelling all the time, become
horses and hardened to it. Sound winded sure footed and know their habitat.
better mounted on thoroughbreds, lightly shod and well fed, and worked in till
conditioned. The faster these horses are the better mounts. To be sure footed is a
was my job to always go to the lead of the brumbies, another 2 men, one each on
right and left wings of the brumby mob. And one to bring up the rear. Old horses
foals may drop out, let them go. The man in the lead has a woeful job, as do the
the wings. The chap on the tail or rear, also needs to be game and good,
It was my job to try and steady the lead, by shouting and crisscrossing in front of
mob. You travel in this manner, to steady them down. Eventually you may even
You will notice the sweat starting to dry on them. It is an indication that they
slowing down. They should be driven and turned about in this manner, until they
reasonably managed. Finally after all day at this practice, you may be able to
to a yard you built 20 miles away.
As for one man on horse back, he hasn`t a chance of doing what 4 top horsemen
As soon as they get hot and confused, the brumbies will split and break away in
twos or little groups, they have to be boxed in by the four riders to stop this
I`d defy any one man on horse back, to act out the part of the man from Snowy
with real brumbies and no fences to help him.
I will include a little poem of a Brumby horse we caught in the old days.
had one hip down and was not saleable. A brumby stallion at seven years of age,
was to become a legend in his lifetime, in the brumby running department. These
stallions we rode with a bit of age on them, knew more about handling horses
did, hence ............ Hippy the Mugan crack .
Was Hippy the mugan crack ,
He can travel through from the streak of dawn ,
With 12 stone perched on his back .
When Jack Day is riding ,
Through holes where the dead Oaks fall ,
Doesn`t worry old Hippy at all .
When brumbies are stringing ,
And stock whips are ringing ,
In mad effort to break away ,
The leaders are clinging ,
Behind the miles flinging ,
In front is the game old bay .
Out in the scrub where the brumbies wheel,
It gives your heart a pain ,
When he stretches out to hold the lead ,
The tug of old hippys rein .
(by an 1890 Mungindi Brumby Runner) Poet :- Alex Wilkie.
MORE MYTHS REGARDING HARNESSED HORSES ..
The myth of the movie maker who knows nothing about horses in harness.
horses cantering in a sulky, cart, or jinker. Or any horse drawn carriage like a
Cobb and co style, four in tandem or six in tandem. These horses are
always cantering in the harness, sometimes for days and days of a journey. They
bloody well canter with their collars on.
DON'T CANTER HIM IN HARNESS MATE ..
After a horse has done one day in harness at the canter, the top of his neck
chewed out, by the collar and both shoulders worn away to bare red flesh. It
be done in the movies or allowed to be done anywhere. All those drivers should be
sacked, for allowing it to happen and the movie maker prosecuted for cruelty to
animals. They should travel in harness at a walk or jog to a brisk trot, allowing
horses yoked up to travel at a comfortable pace.
Only the experienced eye, will know when these horses have been hardened to
with consistent work. A good even team, should be able to stretch out and trot
be hurried along. No horse in harness should have to travel more than 25 miles
miles a day, which is the limit. Yoke a new team up if you must go on, it never
in the movies, they are more like charioteers over a short distance. If pulling from
band this seesaw action, when cantering in harness is just the same, and just as
Damn all men of this calibre, who mistreat the harnessed horse.
HORSE GENTLING, THE WAY IT WAS
THE DYING ART OF BUSH LOGIC ..
Old time carriers with their supply wagons or their wool wagons would take
into the inland. They would return loaded with wool to the nearest railway line or
scour, and wool selling places in the capital cities.
The most ideal setup for a horse team operator, was a good big solid wagon,
about ,24 good big boned draft horses mostly mares and a stallion . The pulling
had to be fitted to each individual horse . These collars range in size from 14
upwards. The two shafters had to be pretty quiet to be backed into the shafts.
two horses were called the pin horses and they carried heavy harness, as they,
shafters, were used to turn the wagon right or left . The harness on the pin
very heavy duty, not only to pull with, but also to take the strain of the horses,
the body of the team effort. They were yoked in pairs of two right up to the
near side leader was picked for his intelligence and was relied on, by the carrier
most other horses in the team .
The off side leader was equally important with the same qualities . When the
spoke to his leaders and pin horses to turn left, he would say. " GE. GE. GE.".
When turning right he said, "GE BACK. GE BACK. GE BACK." To get them
forward into the harness and down the road, it was, "GET UP. GET UP. GET
To stop the wagon, he said "WHORP . WHORP . WHORP . OR WOE."
Bullock drivers also spoke to their bullock teams. When bringing them to the
said " WHA WHE ". If they were to turn right, it was "HOOT OVER. HOOT
Every individual animal had a name and he knew it. If he was slacking and not
his share of the load or weight, sometimes a dig in the ribs was enough to get
HAVING FOALS WHILE TRAVELLING..
The mares were not worked to the point of foaling, the teamster knew when,
the day she would foal. He kept service information in his notebook to know when
might come. The mare was given a few days off to have it travelling with the
These spare horses were brought along by a cattle dog, or blue heeler, whose job
bring any wanderers back to the travelling mob. After being told his job for a
dog did it without instructions keeping the horses in close to the rear of the
a horse wouldn`t pull his weight or wasn`t a good worker, these horses were called
and they were usually sold to a farmer, where they might pull a one horse plough